Myths and legends about the Hungarians of Romania

Romania is a relative homogeneity  population (90 % are Romanian, 80 % are Orthodox and everybody likes wine!). From the rest of 10 % the overwhelming majority consists on Hungarians (also, totally, between 1,5 and 2 million people).

The traditional way to cook paprikas

From this many people the most lives in Bucharest, which is, after Budapest, the most populous city with Hungarians. Other important part are typical Hungarians (Magyar) living peaceful with the Romanians for centuries in all cities or villages of Transilvania. Another Hungarian population, namely the Szekely) lives very compact  in two mountains districts (Harghita and Covasna) as a majority, enjoying a certain autonomy.

The fact is that they speak a language almost identical with Hungarian, and very different comparing to Romanian. Also, culture, way of life are completely different, despite some similarities. They are also good people, not fundamentally different than Romanians. They build here a total special county, Tinutul Secuiesc/Szekelyifold, where is practically impossible to hear Romanian.

The Szekelyi gates are a typical landmark of the region

The origin of this Szekelyi population is very controversial. The Szekelyi self say to be direct descendants of the bloody cruel Attila, king of  Huns, whose son Csaba came and set in the area in the IVth century. After collapse of the Huns Empire Csaba remained the ruler of this population of fugitive horse riders. According other sources, they were first surviving Avarians from a rebellion against Francs. Other ivestigated possibilities: they are Khazars, a Turkish people converted to Judaism ; they are unconquered and unromanised Dacs;  Hungarians having a separate evolution. The fact is that those 600 000 Szekelyi living today in harghita and Covasna districts keeps their identity, language and traditions, organized around the interesting town of Odorheiul Secuiesc.

The Miko castle from Miercurea Ciuc

I strongly recommend not to avoid this Tinutul Secuiesc/Szekelyifold. Even the gastronomy is completely different and you have a lot of things to discover, as the county is totally in the mountains, with picturesque villages, valleys and castles. They drink mainly palinka, and cook in a special way, different even from the Hungarians. Prince Charles of Britain was seduced by the area and bought a property here!
 Thus, you can discover the salt mine from Praid, used for healing the lungs pacients. Observe the wonderful wood gates to the entrance in villages or yards. Discover Sovata, an interesting spa retreat with a very salt lake (very easy to swim, but there are precautions needed)

Take a look to the ruinated castle from Lazarea and drive further in the sleepy Gheorgheni. In the central market named Petofi Sandor there is an interesting Armenian church, unfortunately closed most of the time. The next stop in Miercurea Ciuc/Csikszereda, the coolest town in Romania for real! Visit here Csiki Szekelyi Muszeum (The Szekelyi Museum of Ciuc country). It is also a good place to eat something, enjoying the spicy local gastronomy.

I personally am very fond of the Hungarian and Szekelyi, koszonem!

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Baia Mare, the mining capital of Romania

The city of Baia Mare (Hungarian Nagybanya) is smiling, nice and still interesting and prosperous. Despite the closing of almost mines after 1989  due to low profitableness.

Piata Libertatii in Baia Mare, the remnants of the Downtown from the Middle Age

First time in a written document, under the name of Rivulus Dominarum, has been mentioned by Carol Robert d'Anjou at 1329. One century later gold was discovered in the area, triggering a Gold Rush. At 1446 the gold mines have offered by the King of Hungary to Iancu de Hunedoara for exceptional service. Maybe I shall remember, Iancu de Hunedoara was half Romanian, an unbeatable warrior against the Turks, and the governor of Transilvania. Last, but not least, the father of Matei Corvin, the most important king of Hungary. Iancu the Hunedoara build here a house for his wife Erszebet, which you still can see standing in Piata Libertatii.

The modern Baia Mare has nothing special to make a difference to other Romanian industrial cities

In the following centuries the city kept on flourishing, and during the communist time the mining was heavily supported from the central government. Baia Mare lies not far from the Hungarian border (70 km)  and the Ukrainian one (50 km). There are for sure mutual influences, but the Romanian population is overwhelming against any minority (90 % of the population are orthodox Romanians). The most modern part of the city looks so impersonally, like many others Romanian communist industrial cities. So, please, don't waste your time, there are many other things to do in Baia Mare.

The Stephen's Tower dominating the  Liberty market from Baia Mare with it 40 meters height

So, concentrate on the Piata libertatii (Liberty Market), containing the remnants of the Oldtown. Most of the buildings date back from the XVIIth century. At number 8 find ,please, the above mentioned house build by Iancu de Hunedoara. Actually, the house was much bigger, and what you can see today is only a part of the house, and belongs to the Maramures History Museum, hosting from time to time arts exhibitions.

The Butchers' Tower from baia mare is maybe the city's oldest building. The old fortress had actually seven  guilds' towers.

The overall aspect of Piata Libertatii is only shadowed by its use as parking place. The market is dominated by Stephen's tower (important remark: not the Moldavian Ruler Stephen The Great, but the King Istvan of Hungary). It is 40 meters high, and is now a part of The Saint Third Church, Baroque building from 1707. From the old fortess of the XVIth century, only the Butchers' Tower has been spared. Much more about the history, and mainly Iancu de Hunedoara, in the excellent History Museum of Maramures (Maramures is the name of the neighboring district, having the seat in Baia Mare). Also very interesting is the Art Museum as the Ethnographic and Popular Art Museum .

The hotels of Baia Mare are by far the best in the region, and the city  is the best and easiest access way to discover Maramures, through longer or shorter trips.

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Extraordinary in Romania: Targu-Mures

Targu-Mures (Hungarian Marosvasarhely) is a magnificent city in Transilvania. Actually two cities: a Romanian one and a Hungarian one. Since big ethnic fights from 1990 these communities strive to live together, avoiding mixes. Nevertheless, mixing is unavoidable, and they only have to avoid mutual provocations!

Panoramic view of the interesting city of Targu-Mures

The population consist 50 % or Hungarians (most of them are Szekelyi, said to be not Hungarians. But neither they are Romanians, and they speak Hungarian and have strong connections to Hungary. Some of them simply refuse to learn or to speak Romanian. In the Middle of Romania, in Szekelyi land the Romanians are simply in minority, not more than 10-20 %, and the locals speak Hungarian. Incredible and sad, but true.)

The Culture Palace from Targu-Mures is one of the most interesting museums in Romania

But let's go back to our sheeps, the city of Targu-Mures (German Neumarkt), which has some wonderful monuments of Architecture. First of all comes in my mind The Culture Palace (Palatul Culturii/Kulturpalota) which is really a palace, comparing with many other buildings in Romania which are called palaces, but don't deserve this title at all! In the Culture Palace from Targu-Mures you will notice and recognize the style Art Nouveau with popular influences. And you will notice also the Mirrors' saloon, giving an extraordinary perspective. The feeling is overwhelming, you feel enlighted and is highly probably to get a brillant genius idea.

The Orthodox Cathedral in Targu-Mures lies in the central Roses' Market

You will also notice the rich collection of of Romanian and Hungarian painters, as also the weapons' saloon. The Culture Palace lies in the Roses's Market was opened in 1913, while the city enjoyed a peak of his culture life. Even today the city is an importand culture center for all Romania: here are located a very good  Medicin University and a good theater, hosting two troops, one Romanian, and one Hungarian.

City Hall from Targu-Mures at night

The City Hall is also located in the Roses' Market. It is older than the Culture Palace and was build in Secession style. Further in this Central Market are other interesting things to be seen: the big Orthodox Cathedral, hosting touching paintings inside; History and Archaeology Museum.

If you got tired, go and rest in a good restaurant, as Targu-Mures has many. Try first The Cave La Mitica, where you'll find an extraordinary atmosphere, with more languages being spoken to the tables. Or you can also try a good Hungarian restaurant at Emma Vendeglo, where you can surely find a good goulasch and Budapesta beefteck!

I am sure you are going to like this city, but I must warn you: a city break in Targu Mures is almost imposible, you need 2 days at least for knowing the city. Very close, in Ganesti, you can do a good wine tasting. 

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