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marți, 11 decembrie 2012

Myths and legends about Maramures


Maramures lies in the extreme North of Romania, and is very attractive, proudly welcoming his honored guests. This country of Maramures is very particular in Romania, and you can discover it starting from Baia Mare and travelling all around.

This Mystery Land is actually an eagle  nest build on the mountain rocks. The natural beauty of the places is overwhelming, and the people have sometimes savage or suspicious faces, until they talk and adopt you (guess the next step, it is for sure an invitation to drink tzuica, horinca or palinka, local names for plum brandy. Don't be very happy accepting, it is difficult to face such an important test and must behave properly. You must know from the beginning, that the locals are very well trained.)

There are some easy visible contrasts in all these area. Observe the wooden churches, they are simply unique and note the inside paintings, devoted to Jesus Christ, but carrying Pagan symbols, like The Sun and The Moon. Also, on the monumental wooden gates, observe and note the tree of life! Most of the local cars are very modern, and have foreign plates from Italy mainly, as the youngsters work there to earn some money, while the women still wash their wool blankets in water mills, as their ancestors did a few centuries ago. Maramures is definitely a magic place, where the modern times face with the traditional archaic ones, but have no chance to win.
The wooden church from Barsana, Maramures is really a masterpiece and the highest in the area (75 meters)

The climate in Maramures pretty cold, and specially during winter you must be good dressed ( don't think to dress code or etiquette, you must be well protected against cold ). The surrounding mountains build a natural fortress, explaining the differences comparing to other regions in Romania and the special character of the locals. Up to 1950 was practically impossible to reach Maramures by train from Romania, it was necessary coming over Czechia!

Due to this isolation of Maramures, after Romans conquered Dacia, the still free Maramures was a good shelter for the fugees of other Romanian regions. It is said (local legend from Rozavlea) that Maramures was populated in the good old times by giants. As the time gone away, only one giant remained, and he was very old, but had a young daughter, the pretty Rozalia. Once, walking of the Valley of Iza, Rozalia saw a few small creature, and she didn't know who were. She collected a few of them, and ran to her father to show him. The old wise giant talled her, that these dwarfs are the Romans who shall conquer and run Maramures in the future. Consequently, Rozalia prayed God to make one of them bigger, and her smaller. This fact came true, and so appeared the Romanian people of Maramures!
The wooden gates from Maramures are a landmark. The bigger the gate, the richer the master.

Exploring Valea Izei is easy by car, the road is good, just a little narrow and dangerous, because the locals don't fear anything, including cars! But if you are there on a feast, or during a festival, you will be very happy. The people still wear their ancient suits, bleach the wool in the water mills or spin it.

On the Iza River, in Barsana, Stramtura,, Rozavlea, Bogdan Voda, Ieud you will find the amazing wooden gates, which are not a sign of competition against other community members, but also a remember of the ancient Roman buildings (see the Arch of Triumph in Rome!), in my humble personal opinion.

Don't miss in Maramures  Sighetul-Marmatiei with the impressive Memorial of the Victims of Communism ( due to the isolation, here was a jail where the communist regime let many of his opponents to die) or with the Village Museum, which is a replica of an old village with its obsolete techniques. And a little further, the Happy Cemetery of Sapanta, where a local artist wrote on every cross something special for the deceased, which is usually very brisk!

Within the isolated Maramures, the people are still proud to wear the popular suits


joi, 1 noiembrie 2012

Baia Mare, the mining capital of Romania


The city of Baia Mare (Hungarian Nagybanya) is smiling, nice and still interesting and prosperous. Despite the closing of almost mines after 1989  due to low profitableness.
Piata Libertatii in Baia Mare, the remnants of the Downtown from the Middle Age

First time in a written document, under the name of Rivulus Dominarum, has been mentioned by Carol Robert d'Anjou at 1329. One century later gold was discovered in the area, triggering a Gold Rush. At 1446 the gold mines have offered by the King of Hungary to Iancu de Hunedoara for exceptional service. Maybe I shall remember, Iancu de Hunedoara was half Romanian, an unbeatable warrior against the Turks, and the governor of Transilvania. Last, but not least, the father of Matei Corvin, the most important king of Hungary. Iancu the Hunedoara build here a house for his wife Erszebet, which you still can see standing in Piata Libertatii.
The modern Baia Mare has nothing special to make a difference to other Romanian industrial cities

In the following centuries the city kept on flourishing, and during the communist time the mining was heavily supported from the central government. Baia Mare lies not far from the Hungarian border (70 km)  and the Ukrainian one (50 km). There are for sure mutual influences, but the Romanian population is overwhelming against any minority (90 % of the population are orthodox Romanians). The most modern part of the city looks so impersonally, like many others Romanian communist industrial cities. So, please, don't waste your time, there are many other things to do in Baia Mare.
The Stephen's Tower dominating the  Liberty market from Baia Mare with it 40 meters height

So, concentrate on the Piata libertatii (Liberty Market), containing the remnants of the Oldtown. Most of the buildings date back from the XVIIth century. At number 8 find ,please, the above mentioned house build by Iancu de Hunedoara. Actually, the house was much bigger, and what you can see today is only a part of the house, and belongs to the Maramures History Museum, hosting from time to time arts exhibitions.
The Butchers' Tower from baia mare is maybe the city's oldest building. The old fortress had actually seven  guilds' towers.

The overall aspect of Piata Libertatii is only shadowed by its use as parking place. The market is dominated by Stephen's tower (important remark: not the Moldavian Ruler Stephen The Great, but the King Istvan of Hungary). It is 40 meters high, and is now a part of The Saint Third Church, Baroque building from 1707. From the old fortess of the XVIth century, only the Butchers' Tower has been spared. Much more about the history, and mainly Iancu de Hunedoara, in the excellent History Museum of Maramures (Maramures is the name of the neighboring district, having the seat in Baia Mare). Also very interesting is the Art Museum as the Ethnographic and Popular Art Museum .

The hotels of Baia Mare are by far the best in the region, and the city  is the best and easiest access way to discover Maramures, through longer or shorter trips.

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