5 reasons to visit  Curtea de Arges

If you go from Bucharest to Sibiu one option is crossing the mountains through Transfagarasan, a spectacular  road in the mountains, crowned by international jury to be one of the most spectacular worldwide. Shortly before the mountains, you drive through Curtea de Arges.

In Curtea de Arges everything happens on the main street, the long Bulevard Basarab Ist

This town could seem insignificant and not worthing a visit, being similar with other grey sad meaningless Romanian towns. But the true is very different, even on the contrary: Curtea De Arges needs your time and attention, even if it doesn't ask for them!

First of all, a reason is the wonderful position, in the middle of the hills. You can already see the mountains, and feel them, sometimes there is a strong breeze in the town. Curtea de Arges has a clean mountain air and a special flair. On the near hills there are orchard and forests, you might have the opportunity to find here by the locals (no chance in supermarkets) tasty fruit jams and marmelades. Really unbelievable the huge difference of taste between these genuine products and what you can find in the international. supermarkets!

The breattaking Bishop's Church and Monastery from Curtea de Arges attracts any eye with its twisted towers

Another reason to pay a visit in Curtea de Arges is the simple fact, that this towns is one of the oldest in Romania. It was grounded in the VIIIth century, and strongly decayed  afterwards.  But in the XIVth century Basarab I, the grounder of Wallachia, manages to rebuild it and makes it the Capital of the new state. The town flourishes due to the trade with Sibiu, over the mountains. The ruins of the former Princely Court can still be seen in the downtown. The growth and the wealthy of Curtea de Arges lasted 2 centuries only, because in the XVIth century the Capital of Wallachia has been moved first in Targoviste, and then to Bucharest.

The Princely Church St.Nicholas from Curtea de Arges in the old Court.

Curtea de Arges hosts a few Medieval churches, which are among the most beautiful in Romania, real masterpieces. Two of them are not to be missed: The Bishop's Church and Monastery, and the Royal Church St. Nicholas.

The Bishop's Church was founded at 1512 by the ruler Neagoe Basarab, and accomplished by his follower Radu de la Afumati. Very isolated, almost hidden between leaves, the church is very compact and attractive, due to its twisted towers.  You'll need some time to observe all the oriental  ornaments, birds and plants. These ornaments will be repeated inside, on the floor, or when you will discover the breathtaking twelve columns (after entering a superb door). The church has also other ornaments, Venice mosaics, which have been partially destroyed by an earthquake and moved to the National Art Museum in Bucharest. The French architect Lecomte de Nouy renovated the church at 1875, replacing the mosaics with modern paintings, mainly golden. The church serves also as royal cemetery: here in the church sleep are buried the founders Neagoe basarab and radu de la Afumati, but also the King Ferdinand I and the Queen Maria, King Carol I and the Queen Elisabeth .

The original painting of 1352 in the Royal Church

Not very far is the Manole's fountain with a vey interesting legend.. Manole was the master who build the church, and observed more times that the wall collapsed. Desperately, he took the decision to insert in the building walls the first person who will come . Unfortunately for him, it was even his beloved wife! Shortly, the church has been terminated, and the work was not seen before, due to the special secrets of Manole. But the ruler did not accept that other personalities could enjoy similar churches, and took the decision to take manole as a prisoner, inside the church. Trying to escape by air, similar to Icarus, he collapsed and died. Where he falled emerged a water source and was build this fountain!

Curtea de Arges is nowadays a very long town, build mainly on Bulevardul Basarab, where you can find all important attractions: banks, hotels and restaurants, pastry shops, everything is here. Even a statue of Basarab I is on this boulevard, of course. Next to the statue, the princely church St. Nicholas, build even by this ruler, and restored in1750. the byzantine structure of Wallachia's oldest building is untouched. The painting are the original ones, but still very living, in an excellent shape. The founder is buried here, of course, and the former Court is near the Church.

I think you never thought to find so many things in a small town like Curtea de Arges. It definitively deserves one day from your time. From Curtea de Arges you can go to Sibiu, or to Pitesti, or Bucharest.

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Exploring caves in Romania

Romania has a wide offer for adventurers, and an important issue for these freaks would be the caves (speology is nevertheless a Romanian discovery, thinking to Emil Racovita, one of his pioneers).

Muntii Apuseni, or the Romanian Western carpathians,  are build in a soft lime stone, which made possible an intensive water erosion resulting in many cute caves.

The best area for visiting caves in Romania is the the Western Carpathians (Muntii Apuseni) due to their soft limestone structure. One of the possible ways is leaving Oradea in Direction Deva, turning right to Remetea, and then driving to Meziad, our first target. The Meziad cave is waiting for you for visiting everyday between 9 and 17 hours, less on Mondays. Count on a little entrance fee and enjoy the 5 km long galleries of Meziad cave, discovered in 1849 by a local climber, and was among the first in Romania opened for its fantastic touristic potential. Observe carefully stalactites, stalagmites and the remainings of prehistoric bears sheltering here.

Pestera Ursilor (The Bears Cave) is very spectacular and you can't miss it.

Afterwards follow the way to Lacul Ursu. Beware if it is raining, this way is no more accessible. Lacul Ursu ( The bear lake) is a wonderful lake with a very strange form in the middle of mountains, promising adventures to every step. The lake is also famous among fishermen, and the trout captured here is very tasty. Leaving the lake to south you go through Valea Iadului (The hell valley) which is really very nice and cute, but bears this name on unknown matter. 6 km away from Lacul Ursu you must be able to find and see a water falls, namely Iadolina; if not, you are on the wrong way. Very close, Stana de Vale, a resort for winter and ski, which can act a little disappointing, despite its superb position at 1100 meters altitude. The offer on hotels is not so rich, as also the possibilities of skiing are not brillant.

Please, don't try to do that, is only for skilled trained climber

Very close, The  Monastery  of the Saints Peter and Paul, one of the newest in Romania. It lacks on any possibility of lodging, but is a good starting and orientation point for the many walking trips you can try in the neighborhood. A path leads to Pietroasa, 14 km away direction  south when you can't miss the wooden church from the XVIIth century. From there, very easy and quick to the last targets, Pestera Ursilor (The Bears' Cave) and Pestera Magura. Magura is opened mainly for specialists and experts coming in organized groups, but Pestera Ursilor is worth to a visit and your attention. You can do there a guided tour lasting 1 hour which will delight you, as the cave is very special and spectacular with many stactites, stalagmites, holes and rocks. In some areas looks like a future city, as imagined in Hollywood. Not very big and discovered by accident, has many skeletons of an extincted species of bear.

Skiing in Arieseni, on the beginners' slope

After coming back on the highway turn please left to Lunca, following the indicator to Turda. Within short time you can reach Baita, one of the oldest mining areas in Romania. Already during the Middle Age silver and copper have been gained here, but very famous became this place during the communist era: during the 50' years of the XXth century thousands of miners and soldiers exploited 30 000 tonnes of Uranium, which has been entirely send to the Soviet Union. Radiations are still an issue among the former and retired miners! Beyond the Pass Vartop you can find Arieseni, after a pleasant downhill. Arieseni is an other becoming ski resort in birth state. Amazing in Arieseni, a very unusual church from the XVIIIth century, which is not specially beautiful, but striking.

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City breaks in Romania: Oradea

Very proud of itself, Oradea (Nagyvarad in Hungarian, Grosswardein in German) waits unpatiently and very happy his guests.

Oradea, the River Crisul Repede and the Downtown

You can reach Oradea coming from Hungary, through the charming puszta, or from Arad, but I can propose you a much better and more picturesque way. Namely, come from Cluj Napoca, cross the mountains, and don't miss the source of the River Crisul Repede. Further, to west, after the mountains come the hills, and very soon after the hills also end and the plain starts, you can see the majestic Oradea. The city emerges in the plain, and acts very confident and even very relaxing when coming from this direction! Really hard to explain this strange feeling, I please other visitors, or even locals, to tell me if they experienced the same feeling when entering Oradea. Very amazing for me, I always felt in Oradea excellent, like at home.

The interesting Synagogue from Oradea. Unfortunatelly, through massive deportation during WWII, the Jewish minority almost perished

Oradea is divided in tho halves by the River Crisul Repede. Inhabited from the antique by the Dacs and Romans (her Latin name is Varadinum), it is for the first time mentioned in the XIth century, and completely destroyed by the Mongol invasion of 1241. Rebuild, has gained in prosperity and local importance. The Turks also ruled the city between 1660-1692, followed by Hungarians, and Austrian Habsburg. In 1918 Oradea became part of Romania, which it enjoys up today, almost 100 years ago. Shortly, during WWII, Hitler gave North Transilvania (including Oradea) to Hungary, which ment a condamnation for the strong Jewish minority of Oradea (in 1944 about 25000 Jewish have been deported to the concentration camps! Today there is no more a jewish minority in Oradea, unfortunately).

Oradea, the River Crisul Repede, and the Hotel Continental Forum, the city's best and biggest.

Today, the Hungarian population of Oradea is about a quarter of the total, and sometimes appear again tensions between these people, set up mainly by silly extremists existing on both sides. Nevertheless, Oradea is a very peaceful city, with many mixed marriages and bilingv children, but living at high speed.

There is an old city in Oradea (baroc style from the end of XIXth century), and also a Medieval citadel. Look for History Museum (former Bishop residence), City Hall, Catholic Cathedral, The Black Eagle Palace. Walk in the Downtown and enjoy the people, the city, the weather, everything. Nice city, wonderful life.. Not far, in Felix, you can find thermal baths and follow longer or shorter  treatments, according to needs and budgets. I wish you not to use this opportunity, but keep in mind, who knows!

Some good words about my personel experiences in Oradea hotels. First, I met a Norwegian group on behalf of Karpaten Tourism, who was lead by Kjell Hagbarts and drove by Oivind, at Ramada Hotel. Gyury, Restaurant manager, cooked miraculously within minutes, a refreshing meal for my hungry tired tourists. Btw, he is Hungarian, speaks Romanian, and I have the honor to be among his friends ever since. And another experience, with a Swiss group, staying in Hotel Continental Forum, the city's biggest and best! Which honored allright his **** with the only mention, that the room cards lost easily their magnetic field!

Really a nice city, worths a visit. Contact me for any possible question about Oradea, feel free to do it.

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The Romanian Mountains

The Romanian Carpathians are young and strong, but nor very high comparing to the Alps. The highest Romanian Peak, accessible from the Transfagarasan Road, is Moldoveanu and proudly measures 2521 meters. Climbing it you can feel literally with the head in the clouds, as the Romanian say for pie-eyed people. The ascension is not very difficult, you don't need an oxygen mask, but need nevertheless to take some precautions.

The Peak Moldoveanu  is the highest in Romania and the most spectacular. Not very difficult to climb, but you need nevertheless some precautions. Most important: don't drink wine while climbing!

Maybe Moldoveanu is the most spectacular Romanian peak, but the Romanian mountains, whether lived or savage, are a must for the people who appreciate that and look for adventures. They are usually full with forests, despite the massive cuts from the last years, and you can find many labelled paths, for your delights. There are also many cabins, some of them neglected and very primitive, while others are unexpected luxurious and expensive, judging the environment. In the Fagaras mountains, near the Transfagarasan Road, you can find in winter even an ice hotel. Staying there is a matter of taste indeed.

If we shall speak about the Romanian Carpathians, I won't forget to mention the terrific Transalpina Road

You can also observe the charming Romanian Carpathians from the car, or the bus, during a trip on the fantastic Transalpina Road, Bicaz Gorges, Suceava-Bistrita, or Rucar-Bran. Amazing in some areas, you will be able to observe the Millenial unchanged way of life of the shepherds, who climb the mountains in Spring with their flocks looking for good grass, and return only in autumn. They are stone strong, don't suffer on stress or depressions.

Lepsa in Vrancea County

Some mountains areas have developed themselves through building many pensions for the touristic crowds, and I must name a few: Bocovina, Rucar-Bran, Tara motilor in the Apuseni Mountains, or Lepsa in Vrancea county.( wine tasting in Focsani, Panciu, Odobesti is a must)

A necessary mention for the Dobrogea Mountains, who will make you a sad philosopher. They measure only 700 Meters height nowadays and you can climb them very easy, but in their times of glory were higher than the Mount Blanc. Much older than the Carpathians, they are almost completely eroded now. Nearby, the vineyards from Niculitel.

Apuseni Mountains offers some unique landscapes

There are many things to do in the Romanian Carpathians, and you can get some magnificent landscapes with your camera. But during the climbing is not allowed to drink wine, don't forget. You can ask any further details at dorugiu@gmx.net, I still have some discounts for September.

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