Best ski places in Romania

Best ski places in Romania

Romania is neither an Alpenrepublik as Austria and Swiss, nor a Northern country, but offers nevertheless excellent conditions for unforgettable ski and winter adventures.

Keep in mind an apparently unsignificant fact: the 45th degree Northern latitude crosses Romania. It is exactly marking the half of the way between Equator and Northern Pole, and thus exerting a fantastic influence on the climate of Romania, which is mild temperate. Nevertheless, the winter are sometimes extremely rough, due to strong winds and rich snow falls coming from the Extreme North.

The Fagaras Mountains, also known as the Romanian Alps, have some frightful landscapes

Keep also in mind that the Romanian Carpathians are only 2600 Meters high in their highest peak (Moldoveanu, in the Fagaras mountains, which is snow covered longer than 6 months every year). Maybe you can build now yourself a picture about the Romanian winter: after 15th of December and up to 1st of March there are good conditions for ski in the most of the Romanian Carpathians. Despite these favorable conditions, Romania is not yet an established winter and ski destination, and not many ski resorts have been developed over the years. I will try to mention the most important of them below.

Skilift in Borsa

1. Poiana Brasov/Schulerau is the crown, no doubt. Not older than 50 years, lies at 100 Meters, but you can climb in the neighborhood at about 1700 meters.  There are not less that 10 slopes for different degrees of skills, and there is practically no chance to stay dried during winter. Nevertheless, there are no glaciers and the resort itself is expensive (only the very wealthy Romanians can afford themselves to go in Poiana Brasov! The others go whether in Bulgaria or in Austria).

2. On the Prahova Valley, between Brasov and Bucharest, there are many places where you can ski in good conditions: Predeal, Sinaia, Azuga, Busteni with many slopes for everyone. Special mention for Sinaia, a former king's residence, and another special mention for this road, leading from Brasov to Bucharest. It is narrow, and offers no possibility to overtaking. Consequently, during rush hours it is very often jammed.

3.In the Northern Romania, don't miss Borsa (only for beginners) or Vatra Dornei. Borsa is still one of the cheapest ski destinations in Romania.

Semenic is overcrowded on weekends

4.The resorts from Ranca and Semenic are only since a few years developed and established as winter destinations, and work hard to retrieve. What lacks in infrastructure and entertainment is fully compensated through the unusual kindness of the locals.

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How to better understand Romania and the Romanians

How to better understand Romania and the Romanians

Yes, we are different, comparing to our neighbors, and we are very proud about. No one can take a Romanian as an Hungarian or a Bulgarian, or a Russian. We love all these people, but we are proud Romanian!

Romania is a very Orthodoxe country indeed. Most of the churches are simply earthbreathing masterpieces, e.g. Stavropoleos above

Entering Romania from a neighboring country, any one has  suddenly a revelation. The language is totally different, and also the people. Totally amazing, the Romanian language is a Roman one, close to French, Italian or Spanish. We feel all these mentioned countries with Roman languages, and specially France, as our older sister. By miracle and by a happy hazard, the Romanians succeeded to keep this Roman language despite the Slavian neighbors. And we are confident to keep further for ever in this crazy world. Most of the Romanian cities have a copy of the wolf nourishing its cubes, very similar with the original in Rome! And any Romanian city has a Decebal and Traian street, our heroic ancestors.

Bucharest may not forget being the Capital of a rural country.  The Museum of the Romanian Peasant is one of its best leading museums

The simple truth is, that the almighty God was very generous to Romania, we are very grateful for this! 90% of the population are Orthodox, and the half are going regularly to the church. That keeps us together, and that's why in many parts of Romania the society seems to be still in order. Fertile plains, high mountain peeks, many richness in the soil- how not to be proud and thankful for that?

Besides, we, the people, the proud simple Romanians, make this country so nice, rich and attractive. Most of the Romanians are normal people, friendly and always ready to help you, if you need. They are also charming, flexible and diplomat. All kind of privacies taught them to solve every problem, by improvisations if necessary. I won't dare to say that my compatriots are the best people worldwide, but we are not far from that, despite the negative publicity targeted toward us sometimes! And all these fantastic people are very open, ready to receive guests and give them all the best.

Any travel to Romania becomes without the slightest intention  a fantastic trip in the Ceausescu communist era, due specially to the monumental Parliament palace

After almost 50 years of living in this country, I must quit trying to understand the Romanians. I think it is simply impossible, they are rather sensitive and emotional, than reasonable. Simply love or hate them, but I am sure that is practically impossible hating them!

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Epic Tours in The Fagaras Mountains, at the heart of Romania

Supposing you are a Millionaire, money don't matters and are last issue for you, and you must find the most eccentric way for visiting Romania. Under these circumstances, I would recommend doubtless and with no reserve starting your Romania journey through landing on Moldoveanu or Negoiu, Romania's highest peaks.

It is really a good idea, the best possible for visiting Romania in the most stylish possible way. But to be honest, I must confess: for such Romanian Eccentric Tours I had no demand, and that's why I must come back, addressing to the normal ordinary people like you and me. No matter, I have other checked  ideas for discovering Romania on a budget, but also in the Fagaras County ( also referred as Fagaras Country).

The Fagaras Fortress is fabulous, you can stay there and figure the daily medieval way of life

We have Fagaras Mountains, Fagaras fortress and town, Fagaras County and even Fagaras Country. This area stretches in the center of Romania, between Brasov and Sibiu, showing a long spectacular history, starting with the good old antique times, when the Romans conquered Dacia, forming the Romanian people (around 105 B.C.) and even before. Later, around year 1000 came the Hungarians, starting the interesting Medieval history of the Fagaras Country. Despite foreign occupations from Budapest and later on Vienna, Fagaras remained Romanian in the majority, having rich trade connections with the other Romanian countries, mainly Wallachia.

The small town of Victoria is a good base for conquering the  Fagaras Mountains

Start your discovery tour with the small town of Fagaras, whose life turns around the Medieval Fortress. It is certainly by far the town's most interesting sightseeing spot. Be sure to find there a few restaurants and a hotel. Please don't bother searching lodging anywhere else, stay here in this spectacular fortress and try to figure the medieval life. You can easily reach Fagaras by car and by train. At noon (normally is never too hot) you can take a walking tour of the town, observing the people, the churches, the remote mountains. Please keep in mind the direction, and start to explore them.

Conquering Moldoveanu requires training and a good shape

You can direct first to the town of Victoria, a typical industrial communist one. You are very close to the big Moldoveanu indeed! You can start climbing! Or you can go further to the village of Cartisoara, and drive on the breathtaking Transfagarasan road, reaching 2042 meters height. But there is no chance to conquer the Moldoveanu by car, it is 2500 meters and requires training and a good shape. About Transfagarasan Road there are a few legends. When Ceausescu build it in 1974 it has a strategic goal and the construction required its victims for sure ( probably much more than the officially recognized 40 deaths). In winter is always closed, as you can imagine, and crosses the longest tunnel in Romania, near Balea lac ( unfortunately not ventilated at all, and thus very dangerous). Another possibility to try conquering the big Moldoveanu, Romania's highest peak, is to stay here in the cabin Balea Lac, take the funicular to Balea Cascada and start climbing from there. Now it is not so difficult anymore, anyone can try it.

And once there you can really feel like a Millionaire! It really worth your time and efforts.

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Epic winter highlights in Romania

As a nature freak and wine afficionado, I must confess: I like winter indeed, no matter how many snow falls or how cold is! The winter has a secret charm, and I can feel it for sure. But of course I am not the only one, and I won't keep for myself.

As a child, I can remember my regular winter works: while visiting my grandma in vacations, in a plain village with harsh winter, I was supposed to shorten and then chop the fire wood. It was a very honorable occupation, and I was very happy doing it. 20 years later was closed to be frozen to death in the same harsh plain, watching over a truck with trading wares which ran out of gas.

Nevertheless, I don't hate and i don't fear winter, but on the contrary, I love it,and allow me to suggest now some winter activities for you as a tourist. There are many winter highlights in Romania, and I must select something special for you.

Skiing in Paltinis, the highest winter resort in Romania

The first saving idea shall be, as you can imagine, ski and other winter sports. there are good ski destinations in Romania, starting with the well renowned, but expensive Poiana Brasov. If you go to Borsa is much cheaper, but the slopes are much easier, good only for beginners. Ranca and Paltinis other important ski destinations in Romania.Right time to inform about the last massive snow falls in Romania, making all the ski destinations to be very good prepared for their guests.

Constanta and the sea in winter have a special secret spell and charm

Another proposition: the sea. Maybe seems weird, but the sea in winter looks fabulous, much more romantic than in summer season with their crowds and mass tourism. The chances to find snow in Constanta or Mangalia are very slim. Not all the hotels are opened in winter, but Hotel Malibu from Mamaia is one of them. Unfortunately no swimming pool inside, you must drive to hotel Yaki, e.g. The amazing city of Constanta looks charming, and in many restaurants, as one of the few visitors, you will be treated much better than in the peak season! They will totally spoil you. Use the opportunity to visit the excellent History museum ( as any contemporary History museum from Romania, it is closed on Monday and the known history stops suddenly with WWII)

If you followed in the hot season a certain way or destination in Romania, please repeat it in winter. It has a newer charm, and thus you are also able to gain another perspective. Such a destination is the Bucharest's Village Museum. Visit this amazing museum, observe the old genuine houses and imagine how was the daily life 200 years ago during course winters. It is the best method to get cured about the winter depression.

Another favorite destination in Romania in winter, or in summer is Sighisoara with its unique Medieval fortress, the only one still inhabitated in the all Europe. Discover it, and other secret charms of this small town staying in the exquisite Hotel Binder Bubi. After a long exhausting walk in the hilly fortress you may be spoiled with a perfect dinner and a sauna, making your day perfect.

So, if you fear the winter depression or winter blue, I have the right cure. As the right medication for many other diseases. Please be and remain positive, and don't worry for anything. Life is good and nice everywhere, but specially in Romania.

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Walking and hiking trails in Romanian Bucovina to the Giumalau peak

The Mount Rarau is a kind of Romanian Olympus, subject to many myths and legends, and very popular among Romanian, maybe because is easier accessible. There are more possible trails for that, I have already recommended you one.

Compared with Rarau, the Giumalau peak is only 200 meters higher, but so different! Is is not so friendly anymore, he won't allow you to discover it so easy. Giumalau is much more arrogant, has forests up to the peak, and on  its northwestern side you can discover another old genuine protected on 300 hectars forest (600 acres), called Pojorata. The forests is very similar with the Slatioara forests , and consists mainly on bruce firs, in pure unmixed woods! Over 1700 meters the spruce firs are amazing small, and suffer strong deformations due to the permanent winds. At this point of your climbing appear the small, but dense juniper tree (Pinus montana), which you can cross only after big efforts! My tip: leave them, and search for a proper trail. Other plants emerging often here : the blueberry bush (Vaccinium myrtillus), or the Vaccinium vitis-idaea. In the lightings appear Saldonella montana or the bells (Campanula abietina). A new apearance among the birds, a real star: the mountain grouse; about the bigger and smaller mammals, very similar with Slatioara: wolf, fox, roe, deer, bear, lynx in extended populations. You can still hunt there a lot, let me know about it!

The arrogant Giumalau is not impossible to conquer

One possible trail to conquer the Giumalau is starting from Vatra Dornei. You must climb 1057 meters, following the red band. Please leave by dawn, you must walk 10 hours. The trail leads from Vatra Dornei to Chilia Creek-Obcina Mare (1245 meters)-Obcina Mica (1322 meters)-Lighting Ciungi (1550 meters)-Giumalau Peak (1857 meters) -Mountain Hotel Rarau(1520 meters). Observe in Vatra Dornei the first red band in the small park near the local Council. Be so kind and leave at the left the highway, following the road 17B along the picturesque valley of Bistrita Aurie. When the creek Chilia pays its last tribut to the Bistrita Aurie, follow the creek valley (the red band is very easy to see and follow)

You deserve a good rest after  conquering the peaks Rarau or Giumalau, and the mountain hotel Raraul can offer you that

Follow 5 km the forest road , discovering the Obcina mare and obcina Mica. On the meadows appear the mountain typical landscapes: fences and summer rooms for peasants or animals. Don't miss the exceptionally view from the lighting of Obcina Mica. After only 3 km you cross other trails for conquering the Giumalau peak: one coming from Putna Valley and Itcani (red triangle), or from Mestecanis cabin (yellow band). In a short time you will be able to conquer the arrogant Giumalau peak, after 6 hours hiking, becoming as a small attention the breathtaking view. The other few hours you need to reach the Hotel Raraul, as you need lodging somewhere, and this is the most reasonable possibility! Hotel Raraul is satisfactory, you deserve a good rest after conquering a peak of 200 meters. Take also a refreshing dinner, with a glass of wine.

There also other options of trails towards Giumalaul Peak, but the main thing to know is this: it is not impossible conquering it, be self confident. Take good care on the way of you and your group/family, and never lose the from the sight the trail markings. Also important: don't dare to think of hiking these trails in winter, it is too dangerous. Imagine what happens losing the marks and direction!

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How to find the best Romanian meals and where to order them

Coming to Romania is not anymore a risky adventure, as it used to be a few years or decades ago. The Romanian are civilized normal people with manners and right behavior, the country is safe and the streets almost o.k. You can find in Romania best hotel chains with most sophisticated amenities, but you can also spend your vacation to a small pension, or at the home of a welcoming local (which I would really recommend !)

You can also find in Romania modern, sophisticated dishes, or fast food, but I hope that you didn't come here to queue to McDonald's, it would be outrageous! Searching and asking the Romanian dishes and specials will make you richer and locals will appreciate and even adopt you (once they did, you can be sure that they will be devoted and borrow you even the shirt)

A very appreciated Romanian dish are for sure the meat rolls, which you taste better with corn mush and creme fraiche. Pair it with a dry white wine, and you will be next to paradise. These meat rolls never lack from any Romanian feast, it has tradition and some special spices for the secret recipes. It is possible to find them in different presentations, rolled in cabbage, or grape leaves, bigger or smaller, with little variations in taste, but they they still are number one.

Restaurant continental from Oradea is a good place to order Romanian specific dishes

There are for sure some regional differences between the certain areas of Romania. A general influence is first of all the refined French haute cuisine, introduced with the second half of the XIXth century, beginning with Bucharest, which has had always excellent restaurants. The evolution of Bucharest restaurants goes on nowadays in a spectacular way  through  the opening of many restaurants with foreign kitchen and dishes!

In Transilvania is a  strong influence of the Hungarian Austrian kitchen. Visiting Oradea, Arad, Cluj Napoca is easy to detect it. An important role play in this area the bacon, as other pig products, with the necessary treatments. They eat bacon practically all year long, which is maybe not the best treatment for heart and blood, but please don't try to tell them anything about cholesterol. They won't understand, will be offended, and will give you another glass of tzuica to forget and burn the fat! The dishes here are fat, spicy and tasty. They use also some vegetables, milk and eggs. The soups are being soured with cabbage and spiced with tarragon. An important thing here are the sauces, consisting on onions with flour. Smoked products are also another issue, used even in the soups. Cabbage a la Cluj is a renowned local speciality, consisting of cabbage combined with rice and mincemeat (add a glass of half dried red wine)

Wine tasting by Tulcea, paired with spicy goat cheese and salad

Totally different is the kitchen from Dobrogea, with strong oriental Turkish influences, but the local conditions played also an important role. They use there oil and butter, and the meals don't fall so bad like in Transilvania. They use also sheep and fish, even pig, but never pig fat for cooking. During the hot season they eat very light, mainly salads, with a glass of cold sweat wine, e.g. Chardonnay from Murfatlar.

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