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sâmbătă, 12 ianuarie 2013

Epic little towns in the Romanian Bucovina


If you came in Bucovina and stay in Suceava do discover the legendary painted monasteries,
you have the wonderful chance and opportunity to discover a few interesting places, according to your specific interests and hobbies.

You can, e.g. to ride your bike on the hills around, and discover the churches and the villages on slow speed, which I recommended more times. Not far from Suceava, beyond the hills, are the mountains, and you can walking and hiking in these wonderful mountains, watching carefully the the rich world of local plants and animals. For the fans of urban life and civilization I have also some tips. Discover first the city of Suceava, and compare it afterwards with the little towns of Radauti, Gura Humorului, Campulung Moldovenesc, Falticeni or Vatra Dornei. And that's the today issue.
The little town of falticeni, a Romanian Florence. Here the communist blocks of flat

I would propose as a first target the town of Campulung Moldovenesc. It lies at 600 meters height and enjoys an excellent tempered climate. It si very long (good 15 kilometers), as its development has been made along the main road. Very long are here the winters, as also very snow rich, and the summers chilly and rainy. The mountain peaks of Rarau and Giumalau are close to the town, and many hiking paths lead from the town to those peaks. In downtown you can still see some interesting buildings from the Austrian period, before 1918. Shortly, the best conditions to make a good climatic and tourist resort. which Campulung really is. Discover in Campulung Moldovenesc , whose economic life is tighten to the wood, the impressive "Museum of wood crafts". It is old, hosted in a wonderful building, with 10 exhibiting rooms, as also an exhibition outside, under the sky. You will try to imagine how old these artifacts have been used in the area for wood working, hunting and fishing. There is even an amazing horse driven wine barrel (for me the most important piece from the museum, you can bet on it). Outside expo contains two traditional houses, two or three centuries old.
Aerial view of the picturesque Campulung Moldovenesc

Also in Campulung Moldovenesc a private collection, named Ioan Tugui, has an convincing expositions of 5000 wooden spoons, mainly from Bucovina. Besides many carpets, pottery and coins.

Much better renowned in Romania and worldwide is the picturesque town and tourist resort Vatra Dornei, lieing in an breathtaking depression, on a height of 800 meters. The town developed first as an important trade point in the area, on terraces at different levels. All around, small mountains, not higher than 1300 meters, and only 3 months yearly of hot season. If you dream to ski, Vatra Dornei is the right place, with 120 days of snowy days every year. All the mountains around have a volcanic origin, and in the area there are many sources of mineral waters. The downtown Vatra Dornei and mainly the nice Casino are very well kept. Find and discover there the Museum of Natural Sciences, with his Ethnographic or Biology departments. A special mention for the huge Central Park (wider than 50 ha, means aproximately 100 accres). It is protected as a natural reserve, and the squirels in the park are friendly, you may feed them! I reckon, that a good occasion to discover Vatra Dornei could also be the Festival of Winter Traditions, starting on 28th December.
vatra Dornei is a favorite target for ski and winter sports

Last for today, but not least, the town of Falticeni, which is comparable with the Italian Florence, due to the high density of notorious culture people having the roots in the area: Ion Creanga, Mihai Eminescu, Ion Irimescu and many others more. Their presence and relation with Falticeni is remembered in the local Gallery of Important People. 
Falticeni is lower than the other mentioned towns (400 meters) and you can see all around charming orchards. You can discover the local traditions in the best conditions taking part to the local festival, one in Summer, on 20th July, and one in Winter, on the 27th December.


duminică, 30 decembrie 2012

Epic trips from Constanta on the Romanian Riviera

Supposing you are on the Romanian seaside for a longer or shorter time, and you must take a break from sun, bathing etc (due to sun burns, bad weather, or simply for changing, or because you want know in depth the cultural Romania). Tell me the scheduled time for your trip, between 1 and three days I suppose!

Well, you have for sure a wide choice. You can go to Tulcea and have a wonderful relaxing ship cruise inside the Danube Delta. You are going to need a good camera, the Delta is a protected natural paradise. You can taste some exquisite wines on the ship even, and you can taste also the fish soup (no one, but absolutely no one can cook it so tasty as the locals do). You can stay one day long, or longer, as you wish, and depending on how much you are going to like (but everyone likes, I can bet on it)
Tulcea is a gift of the Danube, and you can have excellent trips on the river, inside the Delta

Another possibility is driving along all the Romanian seaside, 150 km away. Visit all the Romanian seaside resorts, from Mamaia to Mangalia and Vama Veche. In Vama Veche you can simply turn, or going further in Bulgaria. If you really love water and sea, is a right trip! Observe the different properties of all these resorts. In Costinesti, e.g., it is almost impossible to sleep at night. This resort is renowned for its entertainment and very popular among youngsters and students. Vama Veche, on the contrary, has much more style. It is quite, relaxing, unbelievable cheap, and we hope to last in this state!
Ancient Greek artefacts in Histria

Another possibility is an archaeological tour to Histria and Adamclisi. Histria has been for centuries a Greek colony and port, and you can admire its ancient ruins. About Adamclisi there are some things to comment, for sure! Adamclisi is only 60 km away from Constanta, and that means less than 1 hour by car or bus. Observe the sunflower plantations, but also the vineyards (wine tasting in Murfatlar is almost a must do!).

The monument from Adamclisi is called Tropaeum Traiani and measures 38 meters in diameter, and 39 meters in height (shall this be the golden cut? The first impression about the monument is very positive indeed). It has been build to honor the Roman emperor Traian between the years 106-109, for a winning battle against the local Dacians, which took place in 102.  The clush was sharp and bloody. The Romans were better armed and equipped, while the locals fought sometimes only with empty hands. Observe the subtle ancient propaganda: the enemmies of Romans, no matter how brave they may have been, are depicted dying or being captured. The remaining foes of the Romans should draw the necessary lessons. Observe also   the local suits on the locals, very similar with the Romanian National suits from our days!
Wild beach parties in Vama Veche until dawn

The Monument from Adamclisi, as you can see nowadays, is actually a restauration.By the beginning of the XXth the archaelogists discovered the remaining ruins ( no more than a pile of stones!). Its restauration and inauguration in 1977 was a major success for the communist propaganda (nothing new under the sun)




duminică, 16 decembrie 2012

Epic tours of Craiova with the local myths and legends


It is said in Romania (popular joke) that the people of Oltenia (the area around Craiova) are very similar with the Scotsman, thinking to their pride and hot blood (but they are not so tight with the money, even on the contrary. If they adopt you and give their friendship, they will give everything what they possess, starting with the suits).

Thus, we could say that Craiova would be the Romanian Glasgow, forcing the comparison. The fact is, that the city of Craiova has a lot to offer and to say to any traveler, mainly in downtown. I propose you to discover Craiova starting with its churches, there are many, and I've made a selection.
The impressive Curch madona Dudu has an interesting legend

Most of Craiova churches have been build in the Romanian Brancovan style, meaning rich decorations, which are nevertheless not so charged like the rococo. First mention for Church Madona Dudu. According to the legend, the place was chosen after finding an icon of Holly Jesus' Mother (Madona) in a mulberry tree on this place (Dudu=mulberry tree, btw how far are you with the Romanian courses?). This icon had miraculous powers, and the priests used to carry it to the sick people, and if the the icon weighted heavy, there were no chances anymore for the pacient on  this world! On the contrary, if the icon was light, the suffering was supposed to recover! Admire in Madona Dudu Church the quality of the  painting, it is made by a notorious Romanian painter, Gh. Tattarescu. Visit further and compare other interesting churches, The St Ilie Church and and Holly Third Church. Finish your spiritual church tour of Craiova with the St Dumitru church, and its amazing icon of the St. Dumitru, made in Venice mosaic, which is really a masterpiece.
In a plain city, subject to drought periods, a fountain is a very important issue. Here  the Jianu fountain

Another landmark of Craiova, a plain city subject to long periods with no rains, are the fountains (Maybe similar to Bucharest). The fountains here are not so many, or so spectacular, but have a special touch and a big history.
The Jianu fountain was build by the local aristocrat Hagi Stan Jianu. From this fountain used to drink water another Jianu, Iancu Jianu (which was an outlaw and a local legend). 17 years long he has lived as an outlaw, escaped twice from the escort, and succeed to escape a death conviction, because a noble virgin wished to marry him. He was convicted and worked in the salt mines, but died very peacefully in his home from Caracal. He was short, using to carry always gun and knife. Other important fountains: the pig merchant' and the Popova.
The Romanescu park from Craiova  is a must for every visitor!

But after this long walk, you can relax in a wonderful place: Romanescu Park, also named Bibescu park, which is renowned in the all Romania. It was designed by the French architect E.Redont at 1900, which won an important award and recognition for this work. Redont strove himself for the park to seduce through its elaborated wildness, which was so appreciated in those times.. The works lasted 3 years long, and had a serious budget. Walk on the alleys, cross the bridge, look the ruins of the castle, the shelters and kiosks, the swan island. The park 96 hectars of vegetation, a big lake of 4 hectars, and a botanical garden! You need some time to discover this wonderful park!



luni, 15 octombrie 2012

Must see in Romania: Craiova


The city of Craiova is doubtless a regional Capital of Oltenia, Romanian province. Which is maybe the most Romanian provinces of all, and the Romanians from this province are much more passionate and hot blooded, comparing with other provinces, like Transilvania and Moldavia.
Downtown of Craiova at night, with spectacular fountain and the monumental City Hall. Also spectacular in daylight. and a magnetic target for a long walk, among locals and tourists

The people of Oltenia have something special, you can't get in other parts of the country. They are very proud, they are very patriots and have a special sense of humor, and all these things make them a favorite subject of the popular jokes. They speak quickly and ue a special form of past Tense, making them so easy to recognize. Oltenia and Craiova gave some distinguished personalities to the Romanian and  Universal history. 
Mihai Viteazul (Michael the Brave) was first a ban of Craiova, and after Ruler of all Wallachia. He even succeed unifying for the first time all the Romanian countries (Wallachia, Moldavia and Transilvania)

In Middle Age the province of Oltenia has been ruled by the Craiovescu family, from Craiova of course. They hold the title of bans, and were entitles to make coins with their faces (and today, ban in Romanian means money!).Earlier, in the antic Roman times, on these places has been settled the fortress of Pelendava, due to the excellent regional position, to the middle of the way between mountains and Danube.
St Dumitru Church is a brillant example of Architecture

Today, is really a pleasure living in Craiova, and an event to visit it. The local park is one of the most beautiful Romaniawide, while the Art Museum one of the richest. Besides, you have so many things to do in Craiova: e.g a long walk in the Downtown, admiring the old Architecture (e.g. Madona Dudu church, City Hall, National college, the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave, a Romanian national hero. You can find also a leading Romanian National Theatre, and if you are lucky you can even get a show of Tudor Gheorghe, very well known and beloved Romanian Composer and Singer. Tudor Gheorghe is an amazing one man show, holding a full hall in his hand for hours.

From Craiova you can make shorter or longer trips in the neighborhood. Visit Targu Jiu and trive on Transalpina, offering you a unique panorama of the mountains, and reach Transilvania and Sibiu. A special mention for Ranca, a winter resort, where you can ski. Another possible short trip, also in the mountains, is Petrosani and Valea Jiului. If you are not a mountain freak, bag you pardon: go in the opposite direction, to the Danube, in the port of Calafat. And if you are in the mood to combine the mountain and the water, look for Drobeta Turnu Severin and Portile de Fier (Iron Gates), which offer memorable landscapes. Very near is also the vineyard from Segarcea, where we can organize wine tasting.

joi, 11 octombrie 2012

Constanta, the Capital of the Romanian seaside


Nowadays in Romania the most important city is by far Bucharest, but for the second place there is a permanent fight among cities like Cluj-Napoca, Iasi or Constanta.
The Casino from Constanta acts a little sad, his founder build it 100 years ago to the memory of his beloved wife.

Constanta has good chances in this undeclared war. In summer, for instance, turns Constanta clearly to be the most important city in Romania, even many people from  Bucharest come here. The city of Constanta enjoys also the title of the oldest city in Romania, being created by Greek colonists already in the VIth century b.C.  In the first century b.C Constanta became for the first time very well known through banning of the Roman poet Ovid in the city, due its irreverent behavior. Ovid left the rest of his life here, being very unhappy  because of the chilly winters and the rudeness of the locals.
The statue is Ovid's, the famous Roman poet, banned to Constanta. Further behind, the history Museum, one of Romania's best

Nowadays, after a trembled milennary history, the things changed and improved dramatically, and I am sure that Ovid, as any other people would like to be banned here, in the uncrowned touristic Capital of the today Romania! The many stylish restaurants of the city never offer (noblesse oblige) chilled wine, but only to the right serving temperature.

From the many hotels of Constanta, I would like to recommend Hotel Yaki from Mamaia, having all the necessary ammenities (Mamaia is a holiday resort, counting as an outskirt from Constanta). Constanta's most important travel agent is his Mayor, Radu Mazare, a controversial picturesque figure, holding the first page of the tabloids!
Constanta means a lot, but first of all sun,sea and beaches.

You have no time for boring in Constanta! First of all, you can take a walk in the Center, in the Ovid square. Behind the statue of Ovidiu there is the Museum of History and Archaeology, one of the Romania's best, due to the richness of the artefacts and the presentation manner. Amazingly, everything stops in 1947, very similar with other leading History Museums from Romania. Not far you can find the Mosque Carol I, the core of the Muslim community of Romania. You can enter for a small fee, and admire a breathtaking panorama of Constanta from the height of its tower. Further the magnificent Orthodox Cathedral of St Peter and Paul, build in 1880, and painted much later in 1950.

Afterwards, walk further on the pier, watching Romania's most important shipyards and ports. And once, very majestic, appears the Casino, one of Constanta landmarks. It acts a little sad, its founder build it for the memory of his beloved wife, who died suddenly.Something very funny for the educated travelers, which is my personal remember: doing this tour of Constanta a few years ago with a super bus, the WC tank gone out of order and should have been evacuated in the very center of Constanta!

Further, whether on Constanta beaches, or in Mamaia, you can take sun bathes, or to have trips for wine tasting in Murfatlar or Niculitel ,  ship tour in Danube Delta. There are so many many things to do in Constanta, really a wide selection to your disposal.

luni, 27 august 2012

The Big Romania Tour


What I am going to propose now is an Essential Tour of Romania, much more comprehensive than all my former Romanian Tours. You must do for that noble purpose 2100 km, but it worth the pain: you will know a lot about Romania and the related matters ( history, geography, people, wine tastings etc). Thus Romania will appear to you no more as an unknown exotic country, but as a familiar one, and that's why I deeply recommend you this fantastic Tour.

I estimated for this Essential Romania Tour 17 days (with an average of 120 km daily), but you can also make it on your own (contact me for reservations) and stay longer in your favorite places. It is the best when you allow an extra week comparing with my proposition, you'll get even more.

Day 1. Bucharest with a walking Tour in the Downtown, among its seducing mix of Architecture Styles. Also in Downtown visit the Art Museum and feel the agitated Night Life.

Day 2. From Bucharest to Brasov, whether on the Prahova Valley (sometimes too busy, but you have some compensations: wonderful mountains, The Peles Castle), or through Cheia (again mountains, but the street is not overcrowded; plus, you have to visit the interesting salt career from Slanic). Visit Brasov and stay there over night.

Day 3.After admiring the wide panorama from Rasnov, and the Bran Castle ( with its Dracula sensations), go on DN 73 through the Rucar-Bran gorges , with its extraordinary mountain sights. Afterwards in the hills, between orchards, Curtea de Arges and his fantastic churches.
Ramnicu Valcea is a nice small city on the River Olt

Day 4. From Curtea de Arges you can reach Sibiu whether on the spectacular Transfagarasan Road (which is open only shortly in summer), or along the Olt from Ramnicu Valcea for the culture and monasteries freaks. The day ends in the charming city of Sibiu, the former European Capital.
Sighisoara  looks like a German fortress from the Medium Age

Day 5. Go to Sighisoara on DN 14 and navigate through the many Saxon fortresses. Once arrived in Sighisoara, admire its medieval spell !

Day 6. You need only 1 hour for reaching Targu Mures, an interesting cultural city, where you can hear many people speaking Hungarian. Visit the Cultural palace, and afterwards go to Cluj Napoca, a dynamic collegiate  and culturally city. A well known local specialty is the cabbage a la Cluj, matching fantastic with a glass of old wine.

Day 7. Say Good-bye to Cluj Napoca, moving North to Baia Mare. Notice on the way Gherla with its pregnant Armenian legacy . Go back and forth between the nice villages from the valleys of the river Mara and Cosau.

Day 8 and 9. It is not too much to appreciate Maramures. E.g. Sighetul Marmatiei has an interesting jail and a visible Jewish inheritance; the merry Cemetery from Sapanta, where every cross has a poetry on it, refering to the dead; the high wood churches simply scrap the shy; the villages are simple genuin and charming, and the people very generous. Further through Pasul Prislop (DN 18) to reach Campulung Moldovenesc.  But stay to the countryside, in a small pension.

Day 10 and 11. Take your time to admire the many painted Churches from Bucovina and the interesting churches from this part of Romania.

Day 12. On the roads DN 2 or DN 2 E lead in the district Neamt. Around the town of Targu Neamt the monasteries from Agapia, Secu, Varatec are full of life and match wonderful with the superb landscapes.
The City of Iasi and its massive Culture palace

Day 13. Cross the Romanian Moldavia from West to the East reaching its local Capital of Iasi.. This city is full of life and has some secret trumps: student life, important churches and a fantastic Museum of Culture.

Day 14. Start the long downhill to the South. You won't get the time to bore, as the landscapes are very different: hills with forest, vineyards or orchards; empty plains; aquatic or arid areas. Short before Barlad, you cross the River Prut, which will be your escort until Braila and Galati.

Day 15 and 16. Cross the Danube in order to reach Tulcea, the turning plate of the Danube Delta. A good ship travel will offer a detailed picture of this natural paradise.
Constanta is a very nice touristic city

Day 17. From Tulcea to Constanta on DN 87. visiting on the way the Muslim fortress of Babadag, the Lipovan villages of Jurilovca and Sarichioi, as the antic Greek fortress of Histria.

Wine tasting possible every day, if you want it!

luni, 20 august 2012

The most interesting cities of Romania


For the most urban of you, Romania has also something to offer, besides seaside, mountains and Danube Delta. And be sure to find in the Romanian restaurants the exquisite house wines, or special wine tastings. Many parks, museums and monuments will make your delight for sure.
Bucharest, the romanian Capital, is an eclectic city

The star among Romanian cities is Bucharest, without any doubt. Once named "Little Paris", Bucharest is neither the most beautiful, nor the agreeable city you can find, but for sure the most fascinating among the Romanian cities. Bucharest emits a lot of energy, you are going to feel it, and presents also a rather unique mix of Architecture styles. The treasures of the city, together with its wounds or its ugly places, make from Bucharest a half western, half oriental, and very Romanian Capital.
Sibiu is a charming typical Saxon city, with a remarcably well preserved Downtown. In 2006 Sibiu was the European Cultural Capital 

Transilvania counts a few big cities, charming through the mix of Architecture styles and culture. The magic charm of Sibiu (in German Hermannstadt) and Brasov (German Kronstadt) with their Medium Age and Saxon flair is easy to understand by anyone. They are similar in many aspects through history and culture, and conserved a lot of the Old City.
Cluj Napoca is a dynamic Romanian city

Cluj Napoca(German Klausenburg, Hungarian Koloszvar) is a very dynamic economic and cultural hub of Transilvania. Also very dynamic is Timisoara, the country's first free city during the Revolution of 1989. Timisoara represents really an economic wonder, and proudly rebuild all its German, Hungarian or Jewish houses.
Pradea was reinvented by genial architects by the beginning of the XXth century

Oradea has been transformed by genial architects by the beginning of XXth century, without losing something from its genuine baroque charm.

All these charming medium cities luck in Moldavia and Wallachia, with two or three exceptions. There also some differences in the quality of life, mentality among Transilvania and the Old Kingdom. Impossible not to notice.
Iasi has been for centuries the Moldavian capital. Amazing today, near the old buildings, museums, and churches, there is a Bohemian, student, liberty wind. Iasi (or Jassy) is a fascinating city, with a rich history (between the World Wars there were many Jewish living here).
Braila is maybe the most surprising Romanian city. Today it may seem ruined and sleepy, but only 100 years ago rich businessmen coming from all over Balkans and Armenia made it very thrifty, and you can notice it through the many churches and other public buildings.
Constanta is a big port to the Black Sea and a tourist hub.  Constanta proposes many bars, restaurants, as also a little historic city, which is maybe not very well preserved, but charming.

Besides all these wonderful cities, you have the little towns, which have been artificially developed during the communist regime to become industrial centers. Towns like Piatra Neamt, Calarasi, Bacau may seem very depressing on a winter afternoon, but you will find them also full of joy and life in a Spring morning. Notice everywhere in suburbs the obsolete factories which are not anymore in use.

Many of these cities have vineyards very close, and you can go for a wine tasting, if you don't feel the City breaks so interesting.

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