Vrancea county, the paradise of the wine afficionados

I have a lot to tell you about the Vrancea County, lying on the arch of the Romanians Carpathians. There are a lot of myths and legends concerning this unique place, a lot of history and a lot of things to be discovered by you.

This is Vrancea County, with its legends and its wines! 

First of all, the district of Vrancea proudly counts 350 000 inhabitants ( also, not so many, counting also the surface of 5000 sqkm. Results an average of 70 people on sqkm). The relief of the district is a miniature copy of Romania, it is very well balanced between mountain, hills and plains (everyone contributes with 1/3). The soil is very fertile, making from Vrancea one of the most important agriculture area of Romania. With a very special mention for the hills of Vrancea, hosting the country's widest vineyard.

The vineyards are a major richness of Vrancea, and its economy relies on it

In Medium Age, the Moldavian Ruler Stephen the Great (a living legend in Romania), during one of his many battles against the Turks, fled and refugiated in Vrancea County. Here found a a helpful mother, Baba Vrancioaia, which gave all her seven sons to fight back and hit the enemies. Stephen ( 1457-1504) took the offer seriously, took the young sons and fought back. Returning triumphant, he showed his gratitude, saying : "There are seven mountains in Vrancea, and you are seven sons. Let this mountains be yours for ever, and everyone from you shall take one!".

The legendary Medium Age Ruler Stephen The Great is living even today in the popular tradition

The legend doesn't say anymore about the hills of Vrancea, which are much more attractive to me due to the huge vineyards. The economy of the district mainly relies on wine, there are many vineyards and many producers, very proud  of their wines, and very temperamental when it comes to them. There are little, medium and big producers, and everyone is happy receiving guests for tasting, harvesting and other occasions. In Focsani, Panciu, Odobesti are to find bigger companies for processing wines. My tip: go for a tasting first to a medium producer, and afterwards to a big one, in order to compare it. The medium one is friendlier, but the big one has more sorts of wine. And never forget the posibility to go wild on harvesting, which has just begun.

Wine tastings in Vrancea are not very expensive, but highly reommendable

Also in Medium Age is good to know, that there were 3 Romanian countries: Transylvania, Moldavia and Wallachia (The Romanian Country). The Vrancea County was on the intersection of all these provinces. The border between Moldavia and Wallachia was even in Focsani, and because if this fact we had two Focsani towns, one in Moldavia and one in Wallachia. This artificial border could not resist, it was maybe comparable with the situation of Berlin after WWII. When in 1859 Moldavia and Wallachia unified, there were some voices asking Focsani to be the Capital of the new founded Romania, but Bucharest was finally preferred. Now Bucharest hosts 2 Millions people, and Focsani is a province town with 70 000 inhabitants. This is history, but I can't help myself figuring the town Focsani where I live as the Romanian Capital!

There are many sorts of noble excellent wines in Vrancea, and is not an easy task to choice the best of them. The women would choice without any doubt The Champagne from Panciu as the best Romanian Wine. They could also prefer a desert wine, a Muscat Ottonel from Cotesti. But what would choice the males?

Well, many of them would prefer a red wine, e.g. Babeasca (The Old Maid wine), which is a rich, tasty, halfdry Red, recommended for accompanying meat and hunt. The Babeasca from Odobesti 2005 is really one of the Best Romanian Wines.

I have so many to tell you about the Vrancea County,its myths and legends, its wines, but I will spare your time for now. Maybe I will continue in a future post. Meanwhile, I wait for your comments and reservations.

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Special offer for August

I have gotten another surprise/ proposition for you, which represents a special offer for August, and namely a trip at high altitude, in the Fagaras mountains, the highest romaniawide.

Transfagarasan Road is a place of intense and savage beauty

There are more things doing this trip so special:
-I strove to obtain a bargain, and hope to have succeeded
-this road is opened only in July and August, you have to hurry up, in order to find it opened! There are places of a savage beauty, impossible to ride bikes.
-I included a wine tasting, a special surprise for wine afficionado

No chance to ride bikes on Tranfagarasan, maybe with the exception of very well skilled and trained bikers

The necessary details here under.

First Day: Arrival in Bucuresti/Bucharest
    Arrival at Bucharestairport in the afternoon. Meeting with the English speaking guide and transfer to Curtea de Arges, former medieval capital of Wallachia. Lunch en route. Visit the Episcopal Church where the Romanian Kings are buried. Few kilometers away from Curtea de Arges are the ruins of so called real Castle of Vlad Tepes, better known as Dracula, and the stunning views of Arges Valley and Transfagarasan, the unique road running at 2 034m above the sea level, are worth the pain of climbing the 1 480 steps. The trip would not be complete without the stop to the 166m high Vidraru Dam with the gigantic monument of Electricity, located 4 km further.We continue our trip by visiting Vidraru Dam built on Arges river, in Fagaras Mountains. It is one of the most imortant in the country, and many cities depend on it,  but it also offers great views . Stately mountains, shy water falls and green trees, almost all year long. Dinner and accommodation in a good hotel near the dam.   Second Day: Transfagaras Mountain Road

   This entire day we will discover the wild panoramic scenery that Romaniaoffers. The road called Transfagarasan was built between 1970 and 1974, during the rule of Nicolae Ceauşescu, mainly with military forces. A journey on this road will offer you dramatic views and breathtakingly beautiful places. Passing by the Balea Glacial Lake (2034 m altitude, through the longest road tunnel in Romania (884 m) and having the most tunnels and viaducts than any other road in Romania, Transfăgărăşanul is one attraction that must not be missed. The road became even more popular when the crew from Top Gear filmed a show on the Trasfăgărăşan, in September 2009. The host of the show, Jeremy Clarkson said that Transfăgărăşan should have the title of the best road in the world, and that they were mistaken when they gave the StelvioPass in Italy this title. This panoramic scenery is also host the movie Ghost Rider 2. We continue our trip to Fagaras. Here we will discover Fagaras Fortress, the most impressive monument of the town, and the core around which the town was actually built. Ladislaw Kanstarted to built it in 1310 on the former place of a 12th century wooden fortress strengthened by earthen walled fortifications. The former fortress had been burned down by the Tartars in 1241. The fort was enlarged and rebuilt in the 15th-17th centuries in the Transylvanian Renaissance style and came to be known, alongside with Deva, as one of the strongest fortifications in Transylvania. Dinner and accommodation in a good  hotel.   Third Day: Brasov/Kronstadt-Bran / Dracula Castle-Sinaia

   In the morning, drive on to Brasov, formerly Kronstadt, founded in the 12-th Century  by the Saxon colonists. Walking tour through the old town centre, including the Black Church, the Council Square, the Hirsch house, the baroque style buildings from the Habsburg Imperial times. Continue to Bran to visit the medieval castle built as a fortress - The "Dracula's" Castle (1377). Drive across the mountains to Sinaia, named the "Pearlof the Carpathians". Stop in Azuga for a wine tasting. Dinner and accommodation in a good hotel in Sinaia   Fourth Day: Bucuresti/Bucharest   After the breakfast, visit the famous Peles Castle the most famous royal residence in Romania, that was built between 1875 and 1883 – when it was officially opened. Walking tour in Sinaia and transfer to Bucharestairport.
End of our services.      Included services:
3x Halfbord in good Hotels in Romania
Air-conditioned car (for 2 pax), van, minibus or coach for all the above itinerary and program
English-speaking guide throughout (for parties of 2-6 pax the guide will also drive)
All entrance fees to museums and sites included in the program

Important: Transfagarasan road is open only in July and August !   Price starts from 2 Persons: 
from 299,- Euro/Person in Doubleroom
from 389,- Euro/Person in Singleroom

For booking until 15th of August you will receive 5% discount and a special present!
  

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Romanian sorts of wine

As Romania has a long history in the wine branch with a lot of myths and popular beliefs, the Romanian wines have also some special properties, making them simply unique. That shall not mean that in the Romanian leading restaurants you won't wine the French Bordeaux or the Porto, or the Spanish Madera.

No, on the contrary. The Romanian oenologists, someliers and professional tasters are open minded, for sure. If you are addicted to that drops, o.k., they will strive to give you that special drops. But they will give you also the possibility to taste and even to drink some precious Romanian drops. And believe, you have a wide choice.

Cabernet Sauvignon

First of all, in many restaurants you can find the house wine. This is normally only a particular sort of wine, coming directly from the producer, unbottled and costing only 3 Euros per Liter (unbelievable cheap, I would say, if you agree! And I would please to take profit of it!). Paired with the right food, will be delightful. This way of life is very popular in Romania, similar with other wine countries.

Casselas is rather a table grape, you don't make  wine of it

Second, is something history related. After 2000 years of wine making, by the beginning of the XXth century an insect destroyed all the old Romanian vineyards, causing huge damages to the producers. All a few vineyards survived, with the toughest varieties of grapes, which I am going to mention under. The destroyed vineyards have been replaced by foreign sorts (see also under) which must be very familiar to you.

Merlot, please!

Shortly and briefly, let's mention all the sorts of wine you can find in the Romanian vineyards. And let's start with the old Romanian varieties:
Feteasca (young girl wine) is available as white, black and royal. The white one is a yellow-greenish wine, dried or half dried, depending of the harvesting time and the upcoming treatments, also fruity and velvety.The Royal one, also known as Transylvania yellow or Danasana is a little acid, wit a discreet flavor (the flavor of wood flowers)
Grasa de Cotnari- has a long tradition in Romania, and was mentioned even on the Medium Age of Stephen the Great. Excellent wine, rich flavor, pleasant bouquet.
Babeasca (old maiden wine) is a an old wine wine; dark red, strong and nervous. It is not actually recommended for the old maiden, but for their partners!
Francusa- white easy wine, with a long tradition
Tamaioasa Romaneasca- fruity, sweet, fine

The international wine sorts must be much more familiar to you, I am not going to insist on them:
-Aligote is a well balanced wine. Very fruity, very tasty.
-Muscat Ottonel a white desert wine, with a discreet flavor
-Muscadell-similar to the French Sauvignon, is an easy flavor wine
-Pinot gris, even better results in Romania than in France
-Merlot
-Pinot Noir

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Preparing the Autumn Specials

As I talled you more times, trying to warm you up, I am working on the Autumn special offers, namely a week in Romania by harvesting grapes!

25 YEARS AGO IT WAS AN OFFICIAL DUTY OF STUDENTS TO HELP
BY GRAPES HARVESTING. AND WAS NOT BAD! 

There are endless possibilities for that
-active participation, daily harvesting, grapes pressing, processing wine. You must be in the best shape and very reliable. Man, after all is a gentlemen' activity, preparing the new wine, filling the vessels etc. The antique Romans and Greeks were already celebrating The Dyonyssos feast in Autumn. It is very normal to celebrate in Autumn the completion of the agricultural cycle (and year). In the first Sunday of November there is an official celebration, the Harvesting Day (no, Sir, not for grapes exclusively, but for all the fruits of the land which feed us! Maybe poorer this year, due to the long draught, but still an official celebration!)

MANY VINEYARDS STILL USE THE TRADITIONAL WAY OF PRESSING GRAPES

-only watching, but living in the vineyard, drinking must, drinking old wine, tasting some original combinations between the young and the old wine (carcalete is a word to remember). You don't need to be in the best shape, but what you really need is a strong stomach!

-forget the wine tours in Romania, this country has so much more to offer. You can drink a glass of two of good Romanian wine at every meal, just in case. I will also have some special offers in this area, you only need some precious time from your vacation. And you will get much more than a simply vacation.

-living in luxury hotels, going tasting, only visiting the vineyards and the grapes pickers.
Which from the above mentioned tours means going wild for you? And which one would you like to join? Simply tell me by your comments, mail me, only let me know somehow, in order to organize it right.

DANUBE DELTA IS ALSO ROMANIA

Stay tuned, dear friends, and follow me as I have so many things to describe you from this piece of heaven named Romania, and its breathtaking landscapes and endless possibilities to offer you an unforgettable vacation. Danube Delta, Moldavian Monasteries, Black Sea coast, mountains, rich history and so on, I will try to make a complete description, in order to get the all picture. With a bitter mention: the political class, as everywhere in the world, is a big disappointment and also a big danger nowadays. The Bucharest leaders, President Traian Basescu and Prime Minister Victor Ponta can't live peacefully together and govern the country. They are simply mad, or only stupid, escaladating daily a personal conflict. Meanwhile, the country is devastated by a catastrophic drought and the Romanian coin loses daily against Euro (but this could represent your unexpected advantage during a Romania Tour).

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The new crop, the young wine

Every year, the new grapes crop is a fiesta. The people work hard, so hard in the vineyards from morning until evening, and believe me, it is really a hard work! Nevertheless, they find the necessary energy in the late evening for singing, dancing, drinking must ( young wine) and eating.

It is really amazing to see on their faces a magic shine, the shine of an accomplished duty. And is also amazing to observe these people during their celebrations in the late evening. They don't bother to think to the next day, when they are going to work again very hard (and the other days too, the vintage lasts 1-2 months). Finding this energy is totally a mystery, and is due maybe to the wine( did you observe that under certain circumstances the wine acts similarily with the coffee?). Would you like facing this challenge? Tell me if  you would, we can arrange and organize it.

And keep in mind that you must be very fit, in the best shape if you really wanna take part! There are nevertheless some interesting rewards: money (20 euros daily) and three meals as a bonus. Much more important, the feeling of being very useful, and the opportunity to taste the new wine (must), the old wine and to combine them. The possibilities of having contact with the locals is also to be mentioned.

The local favorite meal for pairing with the must is the smoked sheep. This combination is for long runners indeed, tastes really fantastic, but you need a strong stomach. The next day you are going to drink only water (or tea, even better!) and most probably you won't be able to work. But two or three days with this diet, your training is completed and the locals will adopt you for sure.

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Basic rules for pairing food and drinks

You know, for the success of a meal, you must think in advance about the menu and about the drinks (mainly wines, if you ask me!) pairing with your dishes.
According to my experience, there are some basic rules about it, which are very generally and apply not only in Romania, but also anywhere else in the world, maybe with a few local alterations.
1.For the hors d'oeuvres you can try some appetizers, but also dry normal or sparkling wines. But let it be dry, for sure!
2.For the soups, cream soups or borsh you don't need necessary to pair them with wine; exception, the fish soups where you can use a strong dry white wine. In Romania you find these wines in the vineyards from Moldova and Transylvania.

3.For the fish,craw fish and shells I normally recommend a white wine; but won't say no to a good roze wine!
4.Pair mushrooms with half dry white wine, any other combination is wrong!
5.For the main dishes use the red wines (say it in Romanian: vin rosu). For the white meat, the light red wines; for the red meat use heavier more consistent wines; keep the best reds for the hunting meat.
6.If you use a sort of wine to the cooking of a certain dish, never forget to offer it to the dinner together with that dish!
7.For the cheese use further the  wine of the main dish, the red one.
8.For the desert use use young wine ( or must) if available; also possible to use sweet flavored wines, as Muscat Ottonel!

8. Serve always the lighter wine before the heavier consistent ones; also the first should be the young wine (must).
9.For a normal meal, you don't need more than two sorts of wine, a white one and a red one. On special occasions and sophisticated meals is permitted the third sort of wine; choice it according the upper rules.
10.No matter how many sorts of wine you offer, try not to go beyond the limits of a normal consumption (which is between half and one liter).
My basic rules and recommendations turned to be a Decalogue!Try to respect it if you want that everything go smoothly while your celebration!

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THE BEST ROMANIAN WINES

There is always a matter of individual taste, but also a matter of collective judgement. Someone might like the white wines, another stays for reds. In addition  comes the preparation ways, e.g. dry, medium dry and sweet with all their variations.

Another issue of individual taste: younger wine or older wines ( only a few wines can be drinked if older than 10 years). If you are tough indeed and if you know the basics about Romania and its wines, you can prefer one of its vineyards: Cotnari, Panciu-Odobesti, Murfatlar, Dealu Mare, Recas, Minis or even a special year.

But what about the vine varieties? Well, with any risk, but this is a long discussion, but we ought to have it! Thanks. First, there are the well known international varieties, needing no further presentation: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ottonel, Riesling,Aligote, Hamburg Muscat, Chardonnay,Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon. It was not easy adapting these varieties to the Romanian special conditions, but the tradition is now already 100 years old ! You will be maybe deep surprised drinking some of the best glasses of these noble assortment here in Romania, but I tell you that is normal!

Second, there are some traditional varieties, whose tradition goes 2000 years ago! They are rich, and tasty, they are very impressive, and you must prepare your visit and tasting in Romania knowing something about them:
1. Babeasca (Old Maid wine) is available in white and red.
2.Feteasca (Young Girl wine) also available in white and red.
According to the age of your partner, you should make the selection between Babeasca and Feteasca!
3.Cramposie
4.Frangusa
5.Sarba
I wasn't able to find any translation, and I am deeply sorry for it. Better drink and define them finding some similar with yours usually wines!

And finally something for the conaisseurs: there are some excellent old wines here around, starting with the collection of the former Romanian dictator Ceausescu (a wine afficionado, among others)! Also, in some secret hidden places you can find something really special: Aligote Bucium 1986; Pinot Noir Minis 1994; Cabernet Sauvignon Murfatlar 1937 (sic); Cadarca Minis 1970; Chardonnay Murfatlar 1938,1962, 1964; Merlot Murfatlar 1970; Sarba Valea Calugareasca 1970 etc. Cheers, dear friends, you are waited in Romania!

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Tips and tricks for the right pairing of wines and food

Nothing new under the sun, I can hear you. Who is this man thinking he can teach us pairing food and wines? We know to do this pairing, there is no problem, there is nothing easier on Earth! Sorry to insist, but a normal intelligent man has always something to learn, and admits it. And I am sure you are such intelligent people!

You received even from myself some tips and tricks for the right pairing of wine and food on many other occasions. But, you know, taking part to so many professional wine tasting in Romania makes me to forget the normal wine afficionado as you are, and as I am ( I still hope that a wine afficionado is not alcohol or food addicted! At least we in Europe use to think like that!)

But let's go back to our sheeps! How would you pair a desert, a cooked liver, a salt cheese? These are open questions, applying to normal people who cellar more sorts of wine (this is the real wine afficionado in my opinion). And these are the tips and tricks:

1. Never forget that a red wine is richer and heavier than a white one. Keep the red for the heavy dishes, but keep in mind that this mix between good food and excellent wines leads to obesity, when repeated. So, always strive to live healthy and never forget your morning gym!

2. The sweet dishes are to be completed with an easy white wine, the best is the medium dry Riesling, and avoid the Muscat Ottonel, which is simply too sweet.

3.The cheese, if is salty and spicy, must be currently paired  with a medium dry Merlot. The saltier and spicier the cheese, the drier the wine, keep in mind.

4. The jelly duck liver is a heavy meal, but not the heaviest you know. This is in my opinion to be paired with a sweet red Cabernet Sauvignon.

5.Always pair the fish with a white dry wine, e.g. Aligote which is my favorite! About chicken (you guess, an easy dish must get is white) I recommend a sweet Chardonnay

I still have many other tips and tricks, but I keep them for another occasion (not for myself, as I wanna share with you from all my heart). A special mention: you get all the above named wines as presents when taking part to the wine tasting in Romania! And I am waiting now for your feedback, hoping that all these tricks are useful to you.

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