Best secret retreats nearby Bucharest

No matter how charming might be Bucharest, you need sometimes to move away. You are no more in the mood to socialize in a big city, you need to disconnect totally. Bucharest parks are a possibility, Bucharest churches another one.

But if you wanna go deeper in nature, you have excellent possibilities only 100 km away from Bucharest (excepting the rush hours on week ends, when the traffic jams are terribly frequent !). The all Prahova Valley, as the favorite  destinations of the Bucharest inhabitants, is sometimes overcrowded and overbooked, and also polluted. But you can still find some peace and quiet islands, in order to gain yourself and make peace with the inner you.

My suggestion for this noble goal would be a remote isolated cabin in these mountains. Reach first of all the little town of Predeal, only 20 km away from Brasov. You can reach it over Ploiesti and Sinaia, if is not week end and you hope on a fluent circulation, or over Cheia-Brasov, from the opposite side. Besides, you have the train option, which is pretty comfy and costs effective.

Belvedere Cabin offers fantastic view to all neighboring mountains.  It is also remoted and isolated, almost a romantic place, up to the big dormitories!

Once there in Predeal I can propose first the Diham Cabin, accessible after a two hours climbing. For that purpose, live the station and walk along the central boulevard Mihai Saulescu (Romanian poet, falled nearby in WWI). After observing a few shops, Post office and the Firemen, take care not to miss a panel to Hotel orizont, followed by another to the Cabin Trei Brazi (Three Firs). Start walking on the street leading to Trei Brazi, cut the road sinuosities as you are smart, and discover first Cabana Vanatorilor (The Hunters' Cabin), but don't  be happy, it is not your target! Notice here the two marking paths, one with a yellow band, and one with a blue cross. If you are not sure about them, enter the forrest. Inside  a small lighting the blue cross marking turns suddenly left. This is right, please follow it carefully, and start climbing The Mountain Fitifoiu for one or two hours (depending on your mood and shape). At a moment you will join a another path originating in Cabin Trei Brazi, carrying the same marking, a blue cross, whose finally destination is the same: Sipote lighting. At the end of the path, after 2-3 hours climbing you are going to reach your target, the Diham Cabin. Which is big and welcoming, with 70 places in rooms of 6-10 beds, hostel type. No chance of romance, unless you have practice and skills. I have some ideas, will reveal them soon. It is hot, you have running water, hot water and electricity. Limit yourself to the basics, and enjoy life, as the other also do. The cabin lies at an altitude of 1300 meters, you are away from the big city of Bucharest.

The Diham Cabin, not far from Predeal, is a good base for other sorter or longer  hiking trips  in Piatra Craiului Mountains.

If you think that this cabin is not easy enough reachable (which should make you seriously thinking about your way of life, shape and condition!), I can give you another option: The Belvedere Cabin. You can reach it by car, coming whether from Bucharest, or from Brasov, and living the highway to Piriul Rece- Rasnov. The street narrows, but is still o.k., and you can reach the cabin in the best condition. Don't expect a four stars hotel, is a simple cabin, organized as a hostel, but offers a fantastic view over of the nearby mountains.

There are many other options for cabins and almost secret retreats in the Piatra Craiului Mountains, by Predeal, but I wish limiting on these two, it's my choice and personal recommendation. You have wonderful possibilities for relaxing, outdooring and even socializing.

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Fantastic places in Buzau and around

The city of Buzau counts even in the Romanian consciousness rather as an industrial city, than a touristic or cultural one. Which is not fair at all, and I am going to prove it!

Only 100 km away from Bucharest, Buzau is one of the oldest Romanian cities, with many significant trade privileges dating from centuries ago. The first name of the city and the river, you really can't separate them, was Mousaios, as it appears in official documents from the IVth century, kept in the Vatican archive. One of the most interesting story about Buzau is tighten to "The hen with golden chickens", which is an impressive gold thesaurus lieing today in the Romanian National History Museum from Bucharest. It was discovered during ordinary digging works on the hill Istrita by Buzau, when the people was searching stones for building the Orthodox Seminary. The discoverers did not notice its huge value, it is the richest thesaurus found before Tutankhamon's one! Consequently, according to a local legend, one of the discoverer asked the blacksmith to fix a gate hinge with the help of a small piece from the Thesaurus. The people first hide all the pieces, fearing the authorities, courses etc., but sell the treasure to a local entrepreneur, who sells it to a Bucharest jeweler. Very soon the authorities became aware about the huge value of the treasure, and take measures against all  the involved persons, who die shortly afterwards. The Thesaurus have been more times restored and copied; nowadays the original is in the Bucharest Museum above mentioned, and one of the copies in the local History Museum. When German troops invaded and conquered Romania in WWI the original, together with other valuable pieces, has been evacuated in Moscow, and this one is among the few pieces coming back.

The original thesaurus from Pietroasa/Buzau in the Romanian national History Museum

The oldest house of the city, called Vergu-Manaila, is nowadays an Ethographic Museum, and constitutes one of the most important things to see in Buzau. Another one is the Mayor's Palace, a charming building, older than 100 years, still in use, whose exquisite architecture is to observe, notice and wonder.

Now you may to leave Buzau towards Brasov, through the mountains, but you don't need to hurry up. One of the most important things to observe during this trip, its mainly highlight, are the people living in all the villages on the way. Traditional and genuine, they are very friendly and welcoming, and is very easy setting contact with them. You can use every little opportunity for that, and you won't be disappointed. They are wise, know many things, and share them gladly with you! Besides, the fantastic landscapes you will meet. First, observe the huge, neverending Romanian plain, turning soon to hills or even mountains. On the way the most important thing to see is the Siriu Dam and lake. It is really huge and spectacular, and almost natural ( at least the locals name it like that). Actually, there is no a huge concrete dam, as you could expect and find in other places in Romania. The dam consists on rocks, put on a former hill, making it bigger and higher. All the construction looks pretty discrete, a small hill stopping the river. There are many pensions in the area, you can hike and climb these mountains for days and weeks, enjoying the unspoiled nature. While you travel, be very careful in summer about rocks fall after heavy rains!

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A misteryous insulated town on Danube mouth

If you visit the breathtaking Danube Delta, you have so many things to see and to do. Besides the many spectacular views of natural reserves, protected areas, or endemic species, one of the first options is visiting the little town of Sulina, lieing on the arm with the same name, mainly on the right side. It is actually the  easternmost point not only in Romania, but in the all European Union.

In order to judge the works of the Danube, observe in the centre of the town the lighthouse, build at 1850 on the shore. Meanwhile  the Delta has won 1500 meters, it is obvious! The lighthouse has been build at the blossom of the history of Sulina. The port was very important, all the big protecting powers, starting with Austria, were deeply interesting controlling the navigation on the Danube. In the same time has been appointed an European Commision for Danube navigation, which build in Sulina an imposing palace for administrative tasks. This palace is another landmark of the today Sulina.

In Sulina you can bath in the Black sea, as in the Danube River, it is really unique

There are so many things to say about Sulina. Unoficially and unproofed, it might be the oldest human settlement in Romania, dating back from the VIIth century b.C. In the Middle Age starts the written history of Sulina. The Turks started to use first this port, which is simultaneously a river and a sea port! Later, in the XVIIth century, Sulina was an excellent pirate nest. The pirates used ships, but also the forests around the town, to disappear before and after their surprise attacks. A special mention for the legendary Greek pirate Karagounis, who has nerve and was very brave. He died suddenly, and the locals found and buried him respectfully, in the town cemetery. His lost treasure has been not found up to now,and if you are lucky, could also try. His tombstone is only readable  at morning, after wiping it with a wet towel!

When the Sulina's lighthouse has been build 200 years ago, it was on the shore line. Meanwhile the land has won almost 2 kilometers

There are also other prominent personalities  sleeping in the town cemetery, e.g. an English officer with his beloved wife, disappeared in a ship disaster of the XIXth century. After marrying a lower condition women, his parents forced him to leave the house, and he found a place as a ship officer, and his wife followed him disguised. The both receded in a spectacular shipwreck, and their parents build monuments for them. But the bodies have not been found, and the speculators say that they used the opportunity to go away for ever!

The Pirates' cemetery from Sulina

The peak of the recent history of Sulina was between 1860 and 1939, when the port started losing his importance due to the quick development of Constanta. Today the tourism might be a good chance for Sulina, as its excellent wide fine beach stretches along the Danube, as also on the seashore. It is comparable with Vama Veche, the Romanian Capital of the bohemians in the hot season. In the remote corners of the beach there are good conditions for naturalists, please don't disturb them. Sulina can be reach exclusively by water. This huge disavantage turns to be an advantage, as the travelers number rises permanently due to the genuine nature around Sulina ( e.g. the lakes Rosu, Rosulet, Puiu, Lumina as the many creeks and channels)

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Walking and hiking trails in Romanian Bucovina to the Giumalau peak

The Mount Rarau is a kind of Romanian Olympus, subject to many myths and legends, and very popular among Romanian, maybe because is easier accessible. There are more possible trails for that, I have already recommended you one.

Compared with Rarau, the Giumalau peak is only 200 meters higher, but so different! Is is not so friendly anymore, he won't allow you to discover it so easy. Giumalau is much more arrogant, has forests up to the peak, and on  its northwestern side you can discover another old genuine protected on 300 hectars forest (600 acres), called Pojorata. The forests is very similar with the Slatioara forests , and consists mainly on bruce firs, in pure unmixed woods! Over 1700 meters the spruce firs are amazing small, and suffer strong deformations due to the permanent winds. At this point of your climbing appear the small, but dense juniper tree (Pinus montana), which you can cross only after big efforts! My tip: leave them, and search for a proper trail. Other plants emerging often here : the blueberry bush (Vaccinium myrtillus), or the Vaccinium vitis-idaea. In the lightings appear Saldonella montana or the bells (Campanula abietina). A new apearance among the birds, a real star: the mountain grouse; about the bigger and smaller mammals, very similar with Slatioara: wolf, fox, roe, deer, bear, lynx in extended populations. You can still hunt there a lot, let me know about it!

The arrogant Giumalau is not impossible to conquer

One possible trail to conquer the Giumalau is starting from Vatra Dornei. You must climb 1057 meters, following the red band. Please leave by dawn, you must walk 10 hours. The trail leads from Vatra Dornei to Chilia Creek-Obcina Mare (1245 meters)-Obcina Mica (1322 meters)-Lighting Ciungi (1550 meters)-Giumalau Peak (1857 meters) -Mountain Hotel Rarau(1520 meters). Observe in Vatra Dornei the first red band in the small park near the local Council. Be so kind and leave at the left the highway, following the road 17B along the picturesque valley of Bistrita Aurie. When the creek Chilia pays its last tribut to the Bistrita Aurie, follow the creek valley (the red band is very easy to see and follow)

You deserve a good rest after  conquering the peaks Rarau or Giumalau, and the mountain hotel Raraul can offer you that

Follow 5 km the forest road , discovering the Obcina mare and obcina Mica. On the meadows appear the mountain typical landscapes: fences and summer rooms for peasants or animals. Don't miss the exceptionally view from the lighting of Obcina Mica. After only 3 km you cross other trails for conquering the Giumalau peak: one coming from Putna Valley and Itcani (red triangle), or from Mestecanis cabin (yellow band). In a short time you will be able to conquer the arrogant Giumalau peak, after 6 hours hiking, becoming as a small attention the breathtaking view. The other few hours you need to reach the Hotel Raraul, as you need lodging somewhere, and this is the most reasonable possibility! Hotel Raraul is satisfactory, you deserve a good rest after conquering a peak of 200 meters. Take also a refreshing dinner, with a glass of wine.

There also other options of trails towards Giumalaul Peak, but the main thing to know is this: it is not impossible conquering it, be self confident. Take good care on the way of you and your group/family, and never lose the from the sight the trail markings. Also important: don't dare to think of hiking these trails in winter, it is too dangerous. Imagine what happens losing the marks and direction!

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Hiking trails in the Romanian Bucovina to Raraul Mountains

If you reach Bucovina with the main goal to discover its terrific painted monasteries, please observe the wonderful living nature in the neighborhood. And, yes, please, watch carefully the mountains. They are not very high and easy accessible even for untrained people, within 6 hours you can reach the peaks starting from Campulung Moldovenesc.

One of the most iconic landmarks of the region, The Rarau Mountains are the highest in the area (1650 meters in Rarau peak, and 1857 meters in Giumalau peak). These mountains are stretching on 375 sqkm. Admire on the Rarau Mountains the limestone rocks. Even on the peak you can discover amazing markers of erosion, The Lady's Stones (Pietrele Doamnei in Romanian).  These stones are very visible from big distance on the clear days. They are declared nature Monuments and thus severely protected from 1955. The protection comprises not only the geological structures, but also the amazing plants growing there. Even higher with 200 meters, Giumalau is more difficult to climb on, but rewards the brave travelers with an breathtaking view of the all region. Somehow, on mysterious ways, Raraul and Giumalaul managed to preserve their forests up to the peaks, and this is one of the reasons making them so easy accessible.

A map of the region, with the exact locations and the many trails

Special mention on Rarau, for the amazing Slatioara Forests. It is a natural reserve stretching on 270 hectars (340 accres) between 100 and 1340 meters altitude. It is actually one of the the last genuine European forests, being protected from 1940! It is also one of the oldest European forests, proudly counting 400 years, with firs of 50 meters height and 1 meter in diameter!  Discover on the low altitude the firs, followed by the spruce firs at the bigger ones, but if you are really an expert find also pine, yew trees or beech. Also very well represented in diversity and numbers are the animals: bears, wolves, deers, foxes, squirrels, lynxes. Add the rich world of the birds, singing or prey ones, and get a seducing mix. just leaving the old forests of Slatioara, you see a huge impressive meadow, on 44 hectars/88 acres, also named the Todirescu Botanical Reserve, with many species enjoying your senses.

The majestic Rarau with its lady's rocks

The easiest way to reach Raraul peak is starting from Campulung Moldovenesc, near the railway station. Within 6 hours you can reach the peak. The trail is usually and normally easy accessible all year long, as 14 km are along a highway. The total climbing is 900 meters, and the mark consist on the red point. Only 2 km away from the town, the first pleasant surprise, The Gorges of The White Creek. It is a natural reserve on 2 hectars, with old houses, forest, meadows and rocks. 7 km away from Campulung discover a strong water source, a good place for peace and meditation. From Poiana Sihastriei the climbing becomes much more difficult and demanding, but also rewarding. E.g., observe a huge landfall, which took the forest ant the highway with. At km 12 you can see already The Lady's Stones, at the Hawk Rock. Go straight to them, turning left, and discover the  Mountain Hotel Rarau.

The Giumalau peak is crowned by a legendary Christian cross. Please, don't try to reach it in winter, unless you are an exceptional skilled and trained traveler

Within very short time you will forget the efforts to reach the peak. The breathtaking view is a good reward, as discovering some endemic plants on the rocks, e.g the rock flower (Leontopodium alpinum). This trail is not very difficult, but rewarding, I hope to enjoy it. Hiking is much better than writing or learning about it!

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