Most important things to do in Northern Romania

In the Romanian province of Bucovina, District Suceava, very close to the Ukraina border, you have a lot of things to and to discover.
 A good possibility is staying in Suceava with its good hotels, and exploring every day, a bigger or smaller neighboring area. Don't think now to Maramures and Satu Mare, nevertheless they are also in the extreme North of Romania. Now we shall be focused on Bucovina.

Observe please the hills and the mountains, making this area so beautiful and picturesque. The villages seem to be rich, the houses are big. Traditions are well kept and the rural society seems to be still o.k.! Don't miss in one day of your holidays in the area the black pottery of Marginea, which is very cute and has a long tradition.

On the day when you are going to visit the Putna Monastery, allow yourself some extra hours for an instructive trip to Radauti. The town of Radauti is easy accessible through a wide plain, the only one proper plain in the hilly Bucovina! A few centuries ago Radauti was an interesting ethnic mix, counting Romanian, Germans, Jews, Polish and other nationalities.

The St Nicholas Church of Radauti, nowadays the Metropolitan cathedral

Radauti has been for centuries an important trade point, which is still today, despite the huge difference comparing to the prosperous Suceava, the local star and capital. Radauti hosted even an important Orthodox archbishop, but faced many internal and fratricide fights, making it to decay a little, for the profit of Suceava.

If you arrive in Radauti at noon, or at night, it is the right time to do a culinary trip to restaurant Nordic, asking about Lidia Sticlet. I hope she is still there, at her leading place, and will strive to fill the most bizarre and cosmopolitan culinary wishes (nevertheless, she has a soft spot for the Romanian national meals, like cabbage rolls, with a half dry white wine).

The ancient Bogdana Monastery, build by the grounders of the Moldavian dynasty, namely bogdan I, which is burried here.

If you enter the town at other moment of the day, start your cultural trip from the very centre, with the Etnographic Museum. You will be able to understand better afterwards the rich long history of the town, as also the agricultural civilization of the area. Observe and admire the rich collections of wooden icons, sledges or horse wagons made by the local craftsmen, as also other agricultural  tools widely used in the area. The objects concerning the Hutzuls are of the utmost importance, because this mystery civilization is really fascinating. No one was able to answer to the simple question " Where come the Hutzuls from?". But they do exist in many remote villages, are Orthodox of the ancient calendar an their mainly occupations are shepherds and horse keeping ( they breed a special art of horses, also known as Hutzul, which is huge and strong).

The Etnographic museum from Radati is a good starting point for your trip in this area

Walk further on the streets of Radauti, towards Jewish temple, build at 1876. Very intrepid bankers, trade agents or industrials, the Jews build schools, hospital, temples, and even an establishment for old people! The Jews started to come by the end of the XVIIIth century, and were forced to leave the city in 1941, when the German troops occupied the town. Very few people escaped the Holocaust, and consequently nowadays there are very few people of this ethnic group in the town (mainly old people).

Next comes the Orthodox church of St. Nicholas, which is really an important worship building with big dimensions and interesting architecture. Next to St Nicholas church you may see Catholic or Lutheran churches, which belonged once to the German colonists, brought by the Austrian administration of Bucovina. They were craftsmen, skilled glass blowers, bricklayers, carpenters as also army officers or official clerks. But a visit in Radauti is not complete without seeing the Bogdana Monastery. Its very old and very simple, without the normal signs of importance and opulence of a Royal church. The Bogdana monastery looks simply like a peasant house, with a round pointed roof. Thick walls, no towers, these are other characteristics of this amazing church. For a history or culture freak is simply a must, because here is buried Bogdan, the first ruler of Moldavia, who reached the area coming by horse from Maramures with an important suite.

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Best way to discover the Hills around Buzau

Living Bucharest to East, after only 100 km of an endless boring plain you can see with a deep relief the hills of the Northern side of district Buzau. Discovering this intensiv village life in the hidden valleys of the hills announcing the Carpathians will be a big pleasure. The colored rural shows is played by the people, animals and the rich vegetation with a tremendous success. This plain-mountain hilly region is very particular, similar with nothing else in Romania.

The City Council of Buzau is the landmark

But let's start our discovery with the city of Buzau, which is not the best, but also not the last among Romanian cities. The city is an industrial one with 130000 inhabitants, and is one of the oldest in all Romania and looks nowadays typical Romanian. Observe the central market and its animation, and also the rroms quarters of the city (Simileasca, Chimica, Micro 14). Don't miss in downtown the fancy Mayoralty,older than 100 years and rebuild after the WWII. Despite its respectable age, it is impossible to see buildings older than XVIIIth century, as the city was subject of repeted destroys caused by Turks, or Earthquakes.

The House Vergu-Manaila in Buzau is one of the oldest in the city 

Every 6 year there is an Earthquake in the area, approximately 6 degrees Richter, and every 50 years a major earthquake of 7 degrees Richter causes big damages in the all Romania. The explanation is easy: this area Focsani-Buzau lies on the intersection of three major geological plates, namely the European, the Asian, and the African one, causing huge stresses.

The picturescue monastery of Ciolanu, 20 km away from Buzau

What you have to see in Buzau the Archbishop residence, observing the older one, from 1649 build by Matei Basarab. Also, the district Museum, worth your visit, despite the unhappy obsolete manner of presentation. On weekends and at night the main occupation of the locals is walking in the superb Park Crang. Seniors play chess, young married do photos, and young boys and girls are fixing each other. Buzau is also proud of its pretzels (secret recipe and ingredients), the local brandy (tzuica) or  wines (Dealu Mare, Dealurile Buzaului).

There are more sorts of wines in the area, the Reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Black Feteasca) or Whites (White feteasca, Riesling, Muscat) . For the small familial farms, visit the villages of Soresti or Blajani . If it happens on the first Sunday of July, you are very lucky, there is the Wine Festival on place! More exquisite wines can be discovered in Pietroasele.

The Crang Park from Buzau is a major attraction, especially at nights and on week ends

A recommended target in the neigbourhood would be the Monastery of Ciolanu, 20 km away from Buzau to brasov. The Monastery is very old, very quiet ( excepting week ends)  and the monks buildings are covered in flowers, similar to the village. Next to the monastery you will discover the amazing sculptures of Magura. Going further to the forest, you can find the picturesque little village of Colti, the center of an area rich on amber. You can even find here an interesting Museum of Amber near the school (my tip: if closed, go and search the key to the Council!). If you are not tired, you can discover in the forest a few stone churches (no access for the cars). If you are lucky, you can still find some amber, took by the locals from their secret places ( the mines are closed from 1948).

The spectacular strange phenomenon of Moody Volcanoes in Berca

Another important attraction are the Mood Volcanoes from Berca. It is a strange phenomenon, the gas comes to the surface taking with it some bubbles, resulting in bigger or smaller hills of mood, similar to small volcano crater. Don't step on them, only observe from a safe distance, otherwise is dangerous! The visits are no more possible on bad weather (simply too much mood!).

Going further, you can reach Brasov, over the mountains, passing through some unforgettable landscapes.

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How to discover the Romanian Monasteries from Oltenia

The Romanian monasteries are build from stone and faith. The Romanian leaders wished always to engrave their faith in wood or stone, building churches and monasteries whether next to their residences, or in secret retreat places, good for meditation. The painted monasteries from Bucovina attract many tourists, while the monasteries from Oltenia are unfair neglected.

The Cozia Monastery is very nice, very quiet and meaningful for any Romanian: here is buried Mircea cel batran.

But beween Ramnicu Valcea and Targu Jiu, in the superb hilly region of Northern Oltenia  the Romanian rulers Mircea cel Batran, Matei Basarab, and Constantin Brancoveanu build monasteries. A special mention for Brancoveanu, an excellent diplomat who was able to keep Wallachia in peace for a long period. Thus he contributed to the exceptional cultural development of Wallachia during the XVIIth and XVIIIth century. He also created a personal charming architecture style carrying his name, by mixing the Italian Renaissance with baroque and Serbian or Byzantin influences.

The Govora monastery, very close to Ramnicu Valcea

You can discover the Monasteries of Oltenia starting from Ramnicu Valcea, on the busy DN7 leading to Sibiu, along the River Olt and the spectacular gorges of Turnu Rosu.

Discover first the Monastery of Cozia, a discreet hidden apparition between the noisy highway and the River Olt. It was buil at 1387 by the ruler Mircea cel Batran, who is buried here. The church has been build by Serbian masters from Moravia,, concentrating a wide palet of ornamental works. Constantin Brancoveanu added at 1707 the painted rood screens. Pleaes observe the painting of the grounder and the details of his clothes. Discover further the buildings from different ages and the small museum.

Drive through Ramnicu Valcea on DN67  following the Govora Monastery, build by Matei Basarab at 1640,  on the place of an older church. Matei Basarab also put here in function a printing shop, one of the first in the Romanian countries. The church is surrounded by flower, and also by solid walls. The rood screen is charming for real!

The Monastery Dintr-un lemn  is far way from any port or airport, but in a misterious way protects airman and seaman!

The monastery Dintr-un lemn ( meaning from Romanian 'from a single piece of wood) is pretty isolated, but very solid (its name is a guarantee for that). The interior is very protective, warm and familiar. Amazingly, based on an unknown reason and myth, this church protects the seaman and the airman!

The Horezu monastery and the charming Brancoveanu Architecture style

Don't forget in the area the famous vineyards from Samburesti and Dragasani, but you have an other important target, the Monastery Horezu, the pearl among all these monasteries from Oltenia! The land scape is extraordinary, and you must enter an yellow wooden door. It is the masterpiece of Constantin Brancoveanu and an UNESCO heritage. The church is in the centre of a big yard, closed aside by Monastery builing with big carved columns. Recognize and enjoy the Brancoveanu Architecture style through the perfect harmony between its proportions and the discreet ornaments. In this breathtaking church dreamt brancoveanu to stay in the ethernal sleep, considering the monastery as his last will in stone and faith.

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 5 reasons to visit  Curtea de Arges

If you go from Bucharest to Sibiu one option is crossing the mountains through Transfagarasan, a spectacular  road in the mountains, crowned by international jury to be one of the most spectacular worldwide. Shortly before the mountains, you drive through Curtea de Arges.

In Curtea de Arges everything happens on the main street, the long Bulevard Basarab Ist

This town could seem insignificant and not worthing a visit, being similar with other grey sad meaningless Romanian towns. But the true is very different, even on the contrary: Curtea De Arges needs your time and attention, even if it doesn't ask for them!

First of all, a reason is the wonderful position, in the middle of the hills. You can already see the mountains, and feel them, sometimes there is a strong breeze in the town. Curtea de Arges has a clean mountain air and a special flair. On the near hills there are orchard and forests, you might have the opportunity to find here by the locals (no chance in supermarkets) tasty fruit jams and marmelades. Really unbelievable the huge difference of taste between these genuine products and what you can find in the international. supermarkets!

The breattaking Bishop's Church and Monastery from Curtea de Arges attracts any eye with its twisted towers

Another reason to pay a visit in Curtea de Arges is the simple fact, that this towns is one of the oldest in Romania. It was grounded in the VIIIth century, and strongly decayed  afterwards.  But in the XIVth century Basarab I, the grounder of Wallachia, manages to rebuild it and makes it the Capital of the new state. The town flourishes due to the trade with Sibiu, over the mountains. The ruins of the former Princely Court can still be seen in the downtown. The growth and the wealthy of Curtea de Arges lasted 2 centuries only, because in the XVIth century the Capital of Wallachia has been moved first in Targoviste, and then to Bucharest.

The Princely Church St.Nicholas from Curtea de Arges in the old Court.

Curtea de Arges hosts a few Medieval churches, which are among the most beautiful in Romania, real masterpieces. Two of them are not to be missed: The Bishop's Church and Monastery, and the Royal Church St. Nicholas.

The Bishop's Church was founded at 1512 by the ruler Neagoe Basarab, and accomplished by his follower Radu de la Afumati. Very isolated, almost hidden between leaves, the church is very compact and attractive, due to its twisted towers.  You'll need some time to observe all the oriental  ornaments, birds and plants. These ornaments will be repeated inside, on the floor, or when you will discover the breathtaking twelve columns (after entering a superb door). The church has also other ornaments, Venice mosaics, which have been partially destroyed by an earthquake and moved to the National Art Museum in Bucharest. The French architect Lecomte de Nouy renovated the church at 1875, replacing the mosaics with modern paintings, mainly golden. The church serves also as royal cemetery: here in the church sleep are buried the founders Neagoe basarab and radu de la Afumati, but also the King Ferdinand I and the Queen Maria, King Carol I and the Queen Elisabeth .

The original painting of 1352 in the Royal Church

Not very far is the Manole's fountain with a vey interesting legend.. Manole was the master who build the church, and observed more times that the wall collapsed. Desperately, he took the decision to insert in the building walls the first person who will come . Unfortunately for him, it was even his beloved wife! Shortly, the church has been terminated, and the work was not seen before, due to the special secrets of Manole. But the ruler did not accept that other personalities could enjoy similar churches, and took the decision to take manole as a prisoner, inside the church. Trying to escape by air, similar to Icarus, he collapsed and died. Where he falled emerged a water source and was build this fountain!

Curtea de Arges is nowadays a very long town, build mainly on Bulevardul Basarab, where you can find all important attractions: banks, hotels and restaurants, pastry shops, everything is here. Even a statue of Basarab I is on this boulevard, of course. Next to the statue, the princely church St. Nicholas, build even by this ruler, and restored in1750. the byzantine structure of Wallachia's oldest building is untouched. The painting are the original ones, but still very living, in an excellent shape. The founder is buried here, of course, and the former Court is near the Church.

I think you never thought to find so many things in a small town like Curtea de Arges. It definitively deserves one day from your time. From Curtea de Arges you can go to Sibiu, or to Pitesti, or Bucharest.

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