Romanian Festivals in 2013 (part III)

October Festivals

 Bran, tree days by the beginning
 The Ancient Celebration of Sheepherds Comeback turns nowadays in a big Festival with lots of food and drinks.

The St Parascheva Church in Iasi is the main target for October

Sibiu, by the middle of the month, but only during the even years: The Movie Festival Astra
Iasi, one week long, by the middle of the month, The Iasi Festival, consisting on a traditional folklore Festival, but also on a church pilgrimage (The Saint Parascheva is the protector of the entire Moldavia). Many visitors, the city and its hotels are overbooked and overcrowded.
Bucharest, the last week, The Bucharest Festival, due to celebration of Saint Dumitru, the protector of the city.

November Festivals

Focsani, the second week: The Vineyard and Wine Festival

The peacefull town of Focsani is in the middle of big vineyard and hosts every Autumn a Wine Festival

Brasov, the third week, The festival of the Romanian and other minorities traditions
Timisoara: The Beer Festival. Yes, you can find in Romania good , even excellent, sorts of beer and become a beer sommelier. In Timisoara the beer production started 300 years ago, and they know what they do indeed.
Odobesti (Vrancea), the last week : The Vrancea Sheepherds Festival, with grill all over the streets. Don't miss the delicious smoked pemmican, which is not soft, and pairs the best with an easy, sweet and young wine (Must).

A cave in Odobesti, don't be shy when drinking, we have some reserves

December Festival

The 1st December is the National Day, and in some places is celebrated with military parades. Best cities to take part are Bucharest or Alba Iulia
Bucharest,the Middle of the month, one week long, The International Theatre Festival
Bucharest, the week before Christmas: Carols and other songs and traditions on Christmas
Tulcea-The Winter festival
Sighetu Marmatiei (Maramures): The Winter Festival (local winter folklore)

Important mention: the December Festivals are also organized this year,  and if you hurry up, you can catch them, keep in touch for it.

Important observation: during the summer months there are more festivals than in winter, and anyone can explain it, the conditions are much more favorable.

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How to discover the Romanian Monasteries from Oltenia

The Romanian monasteries are build from stone and faith. The Romanian leaders wished always to engrave their faith in wood or stone, building churches and monasteries whether next to their residences, or in secret retreat places, good for meditation. The painted monasteries from Bucovina attract many tourists, while the monasteries from Oltenia are unfair neglected.

The Cozia Monastery is very nice, very quiet and meaningful for any Romanian: here is buried Mircea cel batran.

But beween Ramnicu Valcea and Targu Jiu, in the superb hilly region of Northern Oltenia  the Romanian rulers Mircea cel Batran, Matei Basarab, and Constantin Brancoveanu build monasteries. A special mention for Brancoveanu, an excellent diplomat who was able to keep Wallachia in peace for a long period. Thus he contributed to the exceptional cultural development of Wallachia during the XVIIth and XVIIIth century. He also created a personal charming architecture style carrying his name, by mixing the Italian Renaissance with baroque and Serbian or Byzantin influences.

The Govora monastery, very close to Ramnicu Valcea

You can discover the Monasteries of Oltenia starting from Ramnicu Valcea, on the busy DN7 leading to Sibiu, along the River Olt and the spectacular gorges of Turnu Rosu.

Discover first the Monastery of Cozia, a discreet hidden apparition between the noisy highway and the River Olt. It was buil at 1387 by the ruler Mircea cel Batran, who is buried here. The church has been build by Serbian masters from Moravia,, concentrating a wide palet of ornamental works. Constantin Brancoveanu added at 1707 the painted rood screens. Pleaes observe the painting of the grounder and the details of his clothes. Discover further the buildings from different ages and the small museum.

Drive through Ramnicu Valcea on DN67  following the Govora Monastery, build by Matei Basarab at 1640,  on the place of an older church. Matei Basarab also put here in function a printing shop, one of the first in the Romanian countries. The church is surrounded by flower, and also by solid walls. The rood screen is charming for real!

The Monastery Dintr-un lemn  is far way from any port or airport, but in a misterious way protects airman and seaman!

The monastery Dintr-un lemn ( meaning from Romanian 'from a single piece of wood) is pretty isolated, but very solid (its name is a guarantee for that). The interior is very protective, warm and familiar. Amazingly, based on an unknown reason and myth, this church protects the seaman and the airman!

The Horezu monastery and the charming Brancoveanu Architecture style

Don't forget in the area the famous vineyards from Samburesti and Dragasani, but you have an other important target, the Monastery Horezu, the pearl among all these monasteries from Oltenia! The land scape is extraordinary, and you must enter an yellow wooden door. It is the masterpiece of Constantin Brancoveanu and an UNESCO heritage. The church is in the centre of a big yard, closed aside by Monastery builing with big carved columns. Recognize and enjoy the Brancoveanu Architecture style through the perfect harmony between its proportions and the discreet ornaments. In this breathtaking church dreamt brancoveanu to stay in the ethernal sleep, considering the monastery as his last will in stone and faith.

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Myths, legends and facts about Dracula

Bram Stoker's book "Dracula" is purely fiction, nevertheless based on some historical truths. Personally, I was first shocked and hurt by the book, and its references, but nowadays as a travel guide I find it very useful for promoting the Romanian tourism.

Vlad Tepes Dracula, a scupture from his birthhouse, which is nowadays a good restaurant in Sighisoara.

Those undesired references to Transilvania and Romania turned to be very good for having some fun. There are some places in Romania who had nothing to do with Vlad Tepes "Dracula" during Middle Age, but nowadays exploit its legend and organize an excellent marketing for it (e.g. Bran Castle, Fantanele Castle on Borgo Pass, Snagov Monastery etc).

Medieval Weapons, contemporary with Vlad Tepes Dracula, as exposed in  Restaurant Casa Vlad Dracul

The true facts in brief: Vlad Tepes Dracula was born in Sighisoara and ruled in the Romanian Valachia. Nowadays his birthhouse became a restaurant, where is also possible to see a sculpture of the cruel ruler, together with some Medieval weapons. While his father ruled Vallachia he has been send to Istanbul, as a guarantee for a good behavior to the protecting Ottoman Turks. There he learned a lot about the Turkish language and culture, but started to look his expedition in Istanbul as a captivity, hating the Turks to dead.

The Myth of Dracula is an excellent opportunity for having some fun

Later, during his main reign of 1456-1462, based on his natural born addiction to violence and his hate against Turks, he managed to do 100000 victims, most of them Turks. As an observation, the number is perhaps exaggerated (probably doubled or tripled) and the local political enemies have not been spared.Most of them falled through impalement, his favorite torture and execution method. He choosed probably this method, because he knew what a disgrace is for a Muslim perishing in this manner.

Eating in Dracula House is always an event

Starting from these facts, the book of  Bram Stroker tell the story of the count Dracula moving from Transilvania to London, and being addicted to blood and violence. Simply fiction, of course, but a good start for learning much more about Romania indeed. It even happened in Dracula castle from Piatra Fantanele on Borgo Pass, that a tourist complained about Dracula pawing her breast. I tried to explain her that Dracula is dead centuries ago, but it was useless!

I have tried to select all the places significantly tied to Dracula in Transilvania and Romania, and proposed a few interesting tours in Transilvania and Romania. Be sure to use this long hot Romanian Autumn, which is really fantastic.

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Romania saw from Switzerland

I had the wonderful opportunity to guide a group of tourists from Swiss, unfortunately only during their last day of stay, coming from the company Twerenbold and on behalf on Karpaten Tourism.  It was a big pleasure and a deep honor assisting all these people in discovering Romania, and working together with the driver Paul Schmidt.

The Swiss group had the wonderful opportunity to discover Romania in Autumn, which is a natural painter

How is Romania saw from the Alps, from upthere? The Swiss tourists coming to Romania whose guide I was really enjoyed the stay. They saw a good part of Romania, and was very interested for the painted churches (all of them were practising catholics, and insisted for visiting 8 Monasteries from Bucovina. They loved it very much, they sung together with the nuns in a few monasteries, and admired the paintings. We concluded again, that between the Orthodox and the Catholic beliefs are not so big differences, well known as the Florentin points). Amazing and touching to discover once more, that all the things who unite us are much more important than the little things which separate us. The belief is almost the same, and the differences are only in details.

The painted church of Voronet is a masterpiece, and was very good appreciated by the religious tourists coming from Switzerland 

They visited also Sibiu/Hermannstadt and stayed long in its wonderful Medieval centre, with its Citadel and Liars' Bridge, putting their partners to the difficult test of sincerity! Unfortunately, no one was able to pass that test, and we had therefore very tensed moments. The best shape and disposition has been regained in Cluj-Napoca/Klausenburg, before the riding statue of Matei Corvin, a brave and controversial ruler of Transilvania (Romanians say he was a Romanian, but the Hungarians say on the contrary, he was Hungarian!). Amazing, but true, and very interesting in a city still hosting an important Hungarian minority (20 % of the total population of 400000 inhabitants). Cluj Napoca is very beloved by the Hungarians due to its Inteligentsia. Cluj Napoca is a wonderful example of Medieval flair combined with urban Easteuropean charm. Best place for a city break.

Cluj Napoca is surely one of the Romania's most beautiful and interesting cities

From Cluj to Oradea was a light shot for driver Paul Schmidt, as we were supposed to stay in Hotel Continental Forum****, the biggest and the best from Oradea! Good opportunity to systematize and evaluate the knowledge of the tourists about Romania, who still has many things to be discovered. Thus, the sad farewell turned into an opened invitation.

Hotel Continental Forum from Oradea, on the banks of Crisul River

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The Big Romania Tour

What I am going to propose now is an Essential Tour of Romania, much more comprehensive than all my former Romanian Tours. You must do for that noble purpose 2100 km, but it worth the pain: you will know a lot about Romania and the related matters ( history, geography, people, wine tastings etc). Thus Romania will appear to you no more as an unknown exotic country, but as a familiar one, and that's why I deeply recommend you this fantastic Tour.

I estimated for this Essential Romania Tour 17 days (with an average of 120 km daily), but you can also make it on your own (contact me for reservations) and stay longer in your favorite places. It is the best when you allow an extra week comparing with my proposition, you'll get even more.

Day 1. Bucharest with a walking Tour in the Downtown, among its seducing mix of Architecture Styles. Also in Downtown visit the Art Museum and feel the agitated Night Life.

Day 2. From Bucharest to Brasov, whether on the Prahova Valley (sometimes too busy, but you have some compensations: wonderful mountains, The Peles Castle), or through Cheia (again mountains, but the street is not overcrowded; plus, you have to visit the interesting salt career from Slanic). Visit Brasov and stay there over night.

Day 3.After admiring the wide panorama from Rasnov, and the Bran Castle ( with its Dracula sensations), go on DN 73 through the Rucar-Bran gorges , with its extraordinary mountain sights. Afterwards in the hills, between orchards, Curtea de Arges and his fantastic churches.

Ramnicu Valcea is a nice small city on the River Olt

Day 4. From Curtea de Arges you can reach Sibiu whether on the spectacular Transfagarasan Road (which is open only shortly in summer), or along the Olt from Ramnicu Valcea for the culture and monasteries freaks. The day ends in the charming city of Sibiu, the former European Capital.

Sighisoara  looks like a German fortress from the Medium Age

Day 5. Go to Sighisoara on DN 14 and navigate through the many Saxon fortresses. Once arrived in Sighisoara, admire its medieval spell !

Day 6. You need only 1 hour for reaching Targu Mures, an interesting cultural city, where you can hear many people speaking Hungarian. Visit the Cultural palace, and afterwards go to Cluj Napoca, a dynamic collegiate  and culturally city. A well known local specialty is the cabbage a la Cluj, matching fantastic with a glass of old wine.

Day 7. Say Good-bye to Cluj Napoca, moving North to Baia Mare. Notice on the way Gherla with its pregnant Armenian legacy . Go back and forth between the nice villages from the valleys of the river Mara and Cosau.

Day 8 and 9. It is not too much to appreciate Maramures. E.g. Sighetul Marmatiei has an interesting jail and a visible Jewish inheritance; the merry Cemetery from Sapanta, where every cross has a poetry on it, refering to the dead; the high wood churches simply scrap the shy; the villages are simple genuin and charming, and the people very generous. Further through Pasul Prislop (DN 18) to reach Campulung Moldovenesc.  But stay to the countryside, in a small pension.

Day 10 and 11. Take your time to admire the many painted Churches from Bucovina and the interesting churches from this part of Romania.

Day 12. On the roads DN 2 or DN 2 E lead in the district Neamt. Around the town of Targu Neamt the monasteries from Agapia, Secu, Varatec are full of life and match wonderful with the superb landscapes.

The City of Iasi and its massive Culture palace

Day 13. Cross the Romanian Moldavia from West to the East reaching its local Capital of Iasi.. This city is full of life and has some secret trumps: student life, important churches and a fantastic Museum of Culture.

Day 14. Start the long downhill to the South. You won't get the time to bore, as the landscapes are very different: hills with forest, vineyards or orchards; empty plains; aquatic or arid areas. Short before Barlad, you cross the River Prut, which will be your escort until Braila and Galati.

Day 15 and 16. Cross the Danube in order to reach Tulcea, the turning plate of the Danube Delta. A good ship travel will offer a detailed picture of this natural paradise.

Constanta is a very nice touristic city

Day 17. From Tulcea to Constanta on DN 87. visiting on the way the Muslim fortress of Babadag, the Lipovan villages of Jurilovca and Sarichioi, as the antic Greek fortress of Histria.

Wine tasting possible every day, if you want it!

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The genuine Romania and its unexpected sights

The last untouched European forests are in Romania, as this country had had for years a coherent policy in that field. Extending and generalizing, the last villages from Europe are also in Romania to be founded. You will notice in some remote settlement from Bucovina or Transilvania, with strong traditions, a strange feeling: the society seems to be entirely in order.

In Romania the meals taste and smell very different comparing with your usual meals

If you wanna know Romania in its deepest corner, don't avoid a stay in a remote pension, or even in the house of a local. Everything is different, comparing with what you usually, and even comparing to a hotel. All the meals taste and smell totally different comparing with what you eat at your place. The day starts with a strong breakfast based of fresh product from the neighboring farmers, maybe even a brandy or a glass of wine  for warming up!

In many places in Romania you may have the feeling that this society is still o.k. and still in order

Then you can walk or take the horse wagon, and you will got another dimension of life. Only thus you can discover a lot of details of the life to the countryside: the market, the bar, the land works, the animation around the fountains, cheese production (or other important local activity, like wine making), the acurate handicraft, the church, the football matches, the take off of the children to the school and their way back. You might be very upset about the proximity of the domestic animals, but you will accept the idea soon: the cows on the street  and the geese also free, the goats and the sheeps emitting unheared noises, and the bees visiting the flowers. You will be very pleased by the rural architecture, the nice peaceful houses, the sunny gardens, the monasteries. The smell of hay slightly excite your nose. You will find for sure during your walk in an unexpected tree a small, wizened, but very flavored tasty apple.

Wine tasting is a part of your Romanian trip, as this country is mainly a wine country

In the evening, a rich dinner, with wine of course. You will not succeed eating everything on the table, I can bet. As your vacation gets longer, you will find some differences from this idyllic image, as our grandparents described. The life at the countryside is not easy, even on the contrary, very tough. The old people living there alone see often the stranger only as a source of income, which is not so terribly wrong, as long the quality and the sincerity of hosting are still o.k.!

The local craftsmen keep the Romanian rural society stil in order

A total different way of life can you experiment visiting on the Romanian Black Sea coast. This coast is not very long, and were during the communist time a must do for every people in vacation. Forget the illusion to find lonely beaches. Mamaia and other resorts are overcrowded day and nights and lives passionately, you must do the same. Whether peaceful, or frenetic, don't let the best Romanian wine to stay out of your vacation!

Mamaia on the Romanian Black Sea coast means  a huge difference comparing  to the  peaceful  villages.

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The most interesting cities of Romania

For the most urban of you, Romania has also something to offer, besides seaside, mountains and Danube Delta. And be sure to find in the Romanian restaurants the exquisite house wines, or special wine tastings. Many parks, museums and monuments will make your delight for sure.

Bucharest, the romanian Capital, is an eclectic city

The star among Romanian cities is Bucharest, without any doubt. Once named "Little Paris", Bucharest is neither the most beautiful, nor the agreeable city you can find, but for sure the most fascinating among the Romanian cities. Bucharest emits a lot of energy, you are going to feel it, and presents also a rather unique mix of Architecture styles. The treasures of the city, together with its wounds or its ugly places, make from Bucharest a half western, half oriental, and very Romanian Capital.

Sibiu is a charming typical Saxon city, with a remarcably well preserved Downtown. In 2006 Sibiu was the European Cultural Capital 

Transilvania counts a few big cities, charming through the mix of Architecture styles and culture. The magic charm of Sibiu (in German Hermannstadt) and Brasov (German Kronstadt) with their Medium Age and Saxon flair is easy to understand by anyone. They are similar in many aspects through history and culture, and conserved a lot of the Old City.

Cluj Napoca is a dynamic Romanian city

Cluj Napoca(German Klausenburg, Hungarian Koloszvar) is a very dynamic economic and cultural hub of Transilvania. Also very dynamic is Timisoara, the country's first free city during the Revolution of 1989. Timisoara represents really an economic wonder, and proudly rebuild all its German, Hungarian or Jewish houses.

Pradea was reinvented by genial architects by the beginning of the XXth century

Oradea has been transformed by genial architects by the beginning of XXth century, without losing something from its genuine baroque charm.

All these charming medium cities luck in Moldavia and Wallachia, with two or three exceptions. There also some differences in the quality of life, mentality among Transilvania and the Old Kingdom. Impossible not to notice.
Iasi has been for centuries the Moldavian capital. Amazing today, near the old buildings, museums, and churches, there is a Bohemian, student, liberty wind. Iasi (or Jassy) is a fascinating city, with a rich history (between the World Wars there were many Jewish living here).
Braila is maybe the most surprising Romanian city. Today it may seem ruined and sleepy, but only 100 years ago rich businessmen coming from all over Balkans and Armenia made it very thrifty, and you can notice it through the many churches and other public buildings.
Constanta is a big port to the Black Sea and a tourist hub.  Constanta proposes many bars, restaurants, as also a little historic city, which is maybe not very well preserved, but charming.

Besides all these wonderful cities, you have the little towns, which have been artificially developed during the communist regime to become industrial centers. Towns like Piatra Neamt, Calarasi, Bacau may seem very depressing on a winter afternoon, but you will find them also full of joy and life in a Spring morning. Notice everywhere in suburbs the obsolete factories which are not anymore in use.

Many of these cities have vineyards very close, and you can go for a wine tasting, if you don't feel the City breaks so interesting.

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