Romania for Beginners and Greenhorns

In any aspect must be a first time, and Romania is not an exception. Your first time in Romania must be totally special, unbelievable, sensational. I would dedicate this report to all the people who really love and care about Romania, whether Romania or foreigners, but the target are the people who dare to dream about visiting Romania.

Urban life in Bucharest, Romania

Romania is special, and the Romanian are broadly speaking very special. We are proud, very proud, about our beloved country which is not among the richest countries in Europe or in the all world, and we strive to preserve our standards. More than anything we love to describe Romania and its legends to you, dear visitor coming for the first time in Romania.

If you visit the Danube Delta, please preserve and protect it

Romania and the Romanians are not easy predictable, e.g. the fall of Ceausescu or the election of Klaus Iohannis as Romanian President (he is Romanian, born here as a member of the German minority). You should be aware, dear Beginner and Greenhorn in Romania: despite your thoroughful documentation, the reality is much more interesting comparing with what you might have read.

Sensations in Romania: Dracula legends and the follow of its traces.

Further, you bust have read dear firstimer in Romania about our natural wonders and parks. The Carpathian Mountains  in Romania host some fantastic forest, unbelievable well preserved. And within these forests you are going to find the last significant European populations of bears, wolwes, lynxes or chamois, which former dictator Ceausescu used to hunt. No joking, due to these populations Ceausescu became one of the most renowned hunters worldwide.

In some parts of the country, these traditional ports are still belonging to the daily life

Don't need to mention anything more about Danube Delta. It is for sure a natural paradise familiar to you, neverending source of crazy unbelievable stories and legends. Imagine the locals, which are sometimes totally away from the civilization we love so much, without to suffer. They live very lonely and isolated and are unbeatable fishermen with a respectable knowledge. Really unforgettable if you eat a simply fish soup in the Danube Delta cooked by one of these local masters!

In some places Romania is an opened book, you must only look carefully around (Fortress of Prejmer/Tartlau)

Dear beginner and greenhorn in Romania, you are not supposed to be a nature freak or a lonely wolf if you pay us your honorable visit, but on the contrary. Please remember that we have an intense urban life in Bucharest, our capital, or other big cities, with plenty of museums or architecture monuments. You can also go shopping in Romania, follow Dracula traces and legends or stay in a good hotels. We also have some exquisite wines and an interesting kitchen with different influences you must guess!

Happy foreigner tourists in Romania (Brasov/Kronstadt)

Remember one thing, dear visitor: most important than anything in Romania are the Romanians themselves. They will love you, spoil you, pamper you and if you feel the same you will surely come the second and third time in this blessed country. 

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Epic monasteries by Bucharest

Supposing you are in Bucharest for a few days. You met the wonderful city with its hotels, restaurants, squares, monuments, museums etc. You are also sick on clubbing and dating,partying and drinking, you are not in the mood, or not so young anymore.

Now you need a relaxing day, only for yourself, which should also mean some action and is also supposed to  enrich yourself, from a spiritual point of view. Sending you again to a few orthodox monasteries does not mean that I wanna convert you. I respect very much other religions and beliefs, and the Romanian are also open minded and tolerant. Only stupid people are extremist and not able to understand the next of them embracing other convictions. I will propose you three monasteries very close to Bucharest. The selection is totally personal, based on my personal knowledge and experiences I had in the Romanian capital.

The huge Victory square mirrors all the city of Bucharest through the style mix of neighboring buildings

But, first of all, before leaving the proud city of Bucharest, please go to the Victory Square/Piata Victoriei where this tour starts. The Victory Square is a little miniature copy of the big city, and mirrors its eclectic, but charming mix of architecture styles. Please find and observe on one side the Residence of the Romanian Government, build at 1937, which looks over the all country with a strong disciplining eye. Nowadays the doubtless master there is the young unexperienced Victor Ponta, but this situation could change very quickly. Nomine odiosa, as the old  Latins used to say, and I only mention this already unpopular name just to remember him to stop being arrogant and self sufficient. on another side there are three museums one next to other. The oldest is Natural History Museum, named Grigore Antipa, its founder. It dates back from the XIXth museum. Last, but not least, on a side of the Square there are relatively new blocks of flat, 30-40 years old.

The Cernica monastery, by Bucharest, is a peace island, very close to the overcrowded  city

But let's finally leave the city, forgetting it, despite its secret magnetism. Drive first towards Constanta, and sop after only a few kilometers (or miles, o.k., I am a tolerant Romanian) and discover the Cernica Monastery, a place where many inhabitants of Bucharest go very often and are very happy doing that. Its picturesque position might be an explanation, there is an island of joy and peace, and has a lake next to it. Cernica is, of course, the name of his founder, in the first decades of the XVIIth century, namely the Governor Stirbei Cernica. There are actually three churches inside the monastery, which have been build successively during the XVIIIth century.

The caldarusani monastery might be almost impossible to pronounce, but is really wonderful and spectacular.

Not far away (nevertheless remember to be in an overcrowded big city, strangled by traffic jams), you may discover an older but nicer monastery, namely Caldarusani. Bag you pardon for the impossible pronouncing and orthoepy  of this Romanian word, name it as you wish if is easier and more convenient to you. Just don't forget to visit it, it is your time worth.

Last, but not least, The Comana Monastery, 30 km away from Bucharest. According the local legends, it has been build by the ruling prince Vlad The Splinter, also known as Dracula (due to Bram Stoker is the most notorious Romanian all times!). New archaeological diggings and discoveries have totally confirmed this legend! Nevertheless, stop dreaming to find something very spectacular tighten to Dracula in this monastery, there are other places living on the myth!

Comana Monastery was build by Vlad Tepes, according a  verified  local legend

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Epic palaces in Bucharest with myths an legends

As I love Bucharest so much, can give you a reliable tip: there are actually two or more cities of Bucharest, and you can observe all these layers entering the big city from any directions, but specially from Ploiesti and Brasov.

Watch first carefully the modern buildings, car repairing workshops, wonderful villas with modern amenities, this is the first level, the most recent one. It is followed by industrial factories from the Ceausescu's communist times, with their sad blocks of flats, really living siloses, whose inhabitants dream desperately to live definitively (only 10 % succeed!). The last layer consists of official or private buildings, build up to 1940, in very different Architecture styles, to the delight of any visitor. The resulting eclectic mix is the mainly reason to love Bucharest from the first sight, for any locals or visitors. Here is the heart and the head of the city indeed!

The CEC Palace at night, but it is no less impressive in daylight

Interior of the renowned CEC Palace. To visit it inside you must pretend to be a bank client!

In Downtown Bucharest the buildings are very different not only regarding the style, but also concerning the intrinsic value! The Parliament Palace is very new, huge and controversial; because of it an important part of the historic Bucharest has been sacrificed. Moving and destroying a few churches from this huge area triggered the curses which will kill Ceausescu ( popular myth!). Only a few steps away, crossing the dambovita river over the Izvor Bridge find, please, and observe the downtown, on Calea Victoriei. Next to it, on Stavropoleos street, an important target which you are not going to miss. Simply not allowed to waste the opportunity to visit Caru cu bere/The beer wagon, even for me, which I am normally a wine drinker and afficionado.

Caru cu Bere remains even today one of the Bucharest's best restaurants. Build at 1876 by a German architect (you could guess, I am sure) in New Gothic style, keeps inside the same obsolete atmosphere, and looks simply like a German brauerei from Bavaria e.g. It is overcrowded at any hour when is opened, due to the excellent kitchen and wonderful services. Don't be scared please by the noble local, it is still possible eating in Caru cu bere on a budget! At noon, e.g., there are easy to find some special offers, e.g. The Student menu, or the Senior menu, which are very cheap. Don't dare ordering any of them, you will be probably asked to show a document proofing one of these qualities!

This is maybe the best location for the Romanian National History Museum!

Back in Calea Victoriei, with a full stomach and a wonderful feeling, just to visit shorter or longer two other important palaces, real landmarks of Bucharest. First of it, the magnificent palace of Deposits and Economy bank/ CEC Palace, build at 1900 on a project from french Architect Gottereau, on the very place where an iconic church of the city was lieing. It has a fantastic eclectic style, fancy interiors with smart decorations. For visiting inside, is very difficult for big organized groups, but easier for individual, pretending to be the bank clients!

Just opposite to the CEC bank, a former residence of Post Administration hosts nowadays The national History Museum, build at 1894-1900 by the Romanian architect Savulescu on the ground of an important family of Romanian landlords, namely Balaceanu. Inside fantastic artifacts tighten with the rich history of the country would welcome you, it is worth a visit from you: fragments of the Roman Traian's Column, and the world renowned gold collection "The brood hen with its chicken"

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Most amazing palaces in Bucharest

Bucharest is an amazing overwhelming city, and has the huge advantage to have an excellent position between East and West. The strong trade always drove the city in the right way, and its supremacy against other important cities of Romania is obvious.

You can guess in Bucharest behind the civilized western buildings a strong vibration, coming from the opposite direction of the East full of myths, stories and unbelievable legends. But you need some training to feel this vibration, it is not easy, and totally impossible from the first sight!

Besides its old churches, its legendary fountains or its parks, the secret spirit of Bucharest still lives through its wonderful castles and palaces. There is no a clear regulation or systematization, these buildings are still in public use, many of them, after successive restaurations, and they could emerge in the middle of otherwise totally boring and insignificant streets.

The Justice palace strives to remain official

On Dambovita River, not far from the controversial Parliament Palace ( also knew as People House, or Ceausescu house) meat the nice Justice palace, a temple of the right things. It has been build in a record time, 5  years long ( please don't smile, between 1890 and 1895) according project of French architect Ballu, who build other famous Justice palaces in Paris and Brussels. The sculptures giving the building charm and refinement have been carved by an important Romanian artist, Carol Storck, and represent The Justice, The Law, The True, The Force and The Caution. The Architecture Style is New Renaissance, and the Room of lost steps covers a quarter of the building.

The ruins of the Old Royal Court can be visited in the very center of the modern Romanian capital

Very close, one of the oldest buildings of Bucharest, nowadays only ruins where you can visit a small museum, namely the Old Royal Court, where many ruling princes, e.g. Dracula, had their residence. Observe carefully the poor furniture, and imagine that they haven't smart phones or Internet, specially if you are computer addicted and need detox!

Next to The Old Royal Court, a very picturesque Inn, The Manuc's Inn, dating from a totally different period, the begin of the XIXth century. It is still one of the best restaurants in Bucharest, but the hotel is a
little obsolete. Manuc bey was a Turk and his grounder. The Manuc's Inn saw and hosted many important historical events, e.g The Peace talks and Treaty between Turkey and Russia from 1812. Make again the above mentioned fantastic effort of imagination, and figure out where were the horses, the camels or the best rooms.

The picturescque Manuc's Inn hosted  important crucial moments of the Romanian history

Only a few steps further a sort of mall from the XIXth century, Hanul cu Tei/ The linden Inn. Observe the wide inside court (patio), very similar to Manuc's  Inn. In the Linden Inn you have unique possibilities to buy hand made objects, all the former city guilds still have representatives here! Which doesn't happens very often in a city like Bucharest!

My tip: visit all these palaces and Inns during a Bucharest Architectural Tour, as they all are located in the Old town, inside a small circle, and you can see them all easily by walking or riding bikes.

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Epic  stories about the most famous churches of Bucharest

As you know Bucharest nowadays, it is a seducing capital, perfectly mixing the most modern buildings and hotels with the old ones. Bucharest is worth a visit for any people, of course, but first of all for any Architecture student, due to its unique Styles mix.

One of the most important part of the Romanian history  and tradition are the churches, and Bucharest is of course not an exception. Near its picturesque fountains, wonderful palaces or sad communist blocks of flats, the churches are for sure a landmark for the big city. At the Romanian countryside, the church is supposed to be the highest building. You can realize, that in Bucharest was impossible to keep this old unwritten traditions. The Bucharest churches still hold full of pride the famous names of their founders, members of the renowned aristocratic Romanian families. Nowadays the churches remained small islands of peace and worship in the middle of a busy city. Locals and visitors as well find them very lovely and inviting.

The curses triggered by the moving of Mihai Voda church caused the tragic death of Ceausescu and his wife!

The Michael Church/Biserica Mihai Voda was founded by the Romanian prince and ruler Michael the Brave and is an amazing and convincing splendid example of  Oriental Byzantine Architecture. His grounder build it on a hill, but when Ceausescu build the new Downtown, the church has been removed by a tank behind the blocks of flat. On that occasion the treasure hunters searched desperately for special prey, but did not find anything. The curses triggered on this occasion have finally hit Ceausescu.

The Patriarchy Cathedral rules over the city from the top of a hill!

The Patriarchy church has a much better position, and has been build in the XVIIth century; the noble prince and ruler Constantin Brancoveanu added later the bell tower. The church hosts nowadays the relics of St Dimitrie The New, the Protector of the Romanian capital. The impressive palace nearby was up to year 2000 the headquarter of the Deputies Chamber from the Romanian parliament.

The small Bucur church is accounted to the City founder, the shepherd called Bucur, which is not accurate, historically speaking, as the charming church dates back from the XVIIIth century! Please close your eyes about it, take it easy and don't ask so many questions!

The Good News Church; the news were good for sure for the ruler crowned years for centuries!

Very old, maybe the oldest, is doubtless The Good News Church/Biserica Buna Vestire, from the old court! Build around 1550, it has been for two centuries the place where the local rulers from Wallachia  have been crowned.

Smaller, newer, but very beautiful and even arogant, is the Stavropoleos church, build around 1720, by a Greek monk. It is after all a magnificent example of Brancoveanu Architecture style

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Myths and legends about the most significant building worldwide

Between West and wast, between traditional and modern, between breathtaking beauties and ugly buildings, Bucharest is a place to discover. And even a place to live for its almost 3 Millions inhabitants, 10 % expats, ask them if you don't trust me!

The Romanian capital welcomes you very natural and unsophisticated. Its seducing architecture mix is very promising for any art or history freak. Very close to the Downtown, with its many restaurants and bars, even if you don't wish, The People House will arise before your eyes like a sun. It is simply impossible to miss it, as its central position on a rocky hill makes it visible from a long distance.

Only a few old people can remember the quiet life before 1977 in the area. It was a wonderful quarter with houses for the middle class, all covered in green.  It was a charming quiet oasis in the middle of a busy Capital. After the earthquake of 1977 a few houses and old churches of the area have been severely damaged, and urgent reparations were needed. Instead, Ceausescu took the decision to build an exclusive quarter for him and his nomenclature. All the Romanian people payed a high price for it, measured in the huge deprivations we suffered. 20000 people, solders and workers, have worked for 5 years from dawn to sunset, using the best available raw matters (wood, marble, crystals etc). It is said (only a legend, which we can't check anymore) that some people died, and have been buried in the foundation! But the results are convincing and even breathtaking. The Guiness World Records Book places it on the 2nd rank worldwide, behind the Pentagon,  with total surface of 330 000 sqm! Thinking about its volume of 2 550 cubic metres ranks the third worldwide. Also known as the "Devil's Nest", it has some dimensions: length 270 meters, width 240 meters, height 84 meters, and depth 92 meters (atomic shelter and a network of tunnels are beneath the huge building).

Very huge and spectacular, the Romanian parliament house has been build with a huge price

Nicolae Ceausescu did not achieve his building, and did not manage to see it in the final version. When he died in 1989 only the face and a few rooms were ready. It is also said, that the constructors, exhausted by the daily sessions  with Ceausescu, and his unbelievable demands, even took the decision to bury a crane (which will check the Archaeologists, in a few hundreds or thousands years!). After the Romanian revolution and dissolution of Ceausescu regime, nobody knew what should be done with the huge building. Some voices found it an ugly dark symbol of the communist regime, and even asked its demolition! Another idea of the same level was transforming it in a huge casino, following the Las Vegas model. Fact is, The People house, could be neglected, ruining itself. The most reasonable and wise decision has been finaly made, namely to end up the works, at other speed and other budgets, of course. Nowadays it hosts the Romanian Parliament and some international meeting and conferences. An inside visit is also possible in a few rooms (there are 6 floors and 20 building corps), The monumental sculptures, golden works, marbles, huge tapestry and heavy crystals  will impress any visitor.

The second biggest building worldwide is very impressive inside too!

Thinking about this house, there is a strange prophecy of an Indian, namely Sundar Singh,born in 1889, who has visited the Christian countries during the first decade of the XXth century. He foresees a golden future for Bucharest and Romania, as an island of neutrality and tolerance, speaking even about a huge building in the heart of Bucharest.

I still have many things to tell you about The Parliament House, Bucharest etc. Maybe during your trip to Romania!

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Short trips from Bucharest 

During your longer or shorter stay in the Romanian Capital you have so many possibilities for entertainment, visiting museums, parks, having sophisticated dinners in fancy restaurants, etc. You can discover your own Bucharest, as it is really charming and has something for everyone!

Supposing nevertheless that you have the time and the mood for leaving shortly the huge city, you have also many options. City breaks in Ploiesti or Brasov could be a solution; also Pitesti, Buzau, Focsani, Galati or Braila will welcome you. But I have another propositions for you: visit a royal, refined and mystery palace, only a few kilometers away, namely in Mogosoaia.

The former ruler of Wallachia, Constantin Brancoveanu, was  a skilled diplomat, an art freak, who enjoyed wine and parties very much.

The position of the palace is breathtaking: in the middle of a huge picturesque possession with forest, park and lake, telling a secret story about an important Romanian ruler from XVIIth century. His name was Constantin Brancoveanu, and he was born at 1654, in an old aristocratic family. He was a gold and book prince, an excellent diplomat, enjoyed wine and parties (like many other Romanians). He has been also a Macchiavelli  disciple and follower, as an athlet Christi. . Due to his building and achievements,his complicated temper and tragic faith, he is the essence of the Romanian Renaissance. He succeeded to keep 25 years of peace, which was a good period for arts, crafts and everyday life. He even developed a personal architectural style, Brancoveanu style, present in many places of Romania.

The wonderful, yet mystery, Romanian Palace of Mogosoaia,  build in the Romanian Renaissance style

But the most important and iconic place for the Brancoveanu style is even the above mentioned Palace of Mogosoaia. The rich Brancoveanu bought Mogosoaia  at 1702, ordering immediately building of a smaller Versailles and parallel Royal court over there. For visiting the Mogosoaia Palace head first to Targoviste, but stop in the village Mogosoaia, and discover the Palace by walking.  Observe first the large shadowing alley bordered by big chestnut tree, and enter the left church, watching on the walls a painting of Brancoveanu and his family.

The Royal church from the left still hosts paintings of Constantin Brancoveanu and  his family

After balancing long time between the big powers around (Turks, Russians, Austrians) he was executed by the Turks at 1712 in Istanbul. The Turks asked him first to convert to Islam, but he refused, and was executed with his four sons together. History is so cruel and unfair sometimes! His sudden exile and decapitation let opened many speculations about its wealthy treasure, which has been not found up today, despite all the desperate searches, similar with Dracula's. Maybe you will be the lucky one!

After his tragic death, The Palace of Mogosoaia decayed and ruined, until 1912 when another Prince, Bibescu, decides to restaurate the palace, according to original plans and indications. We owe him the today aspect of Mogosoaia! The Palace itself is big, strong, but its lines are in a perfect harmony. On the ground floor, eight rooms for the servants, and at the first floor, the Royal flat and the huge Council room. On the side with lake view, observe what is maybe the most interesting thing in the all palace: A SUPERB BALCONY, VERY INTERESTING AND REFINED, a real oasis of rest and contemplation.

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The secret charm of Bucharest

The Romanian Capital stretches on a huge neverending plain, the Romanian plain. Neither spectacular rivers, nor hill or mountains are able to put the big city in good light, and thus it is so easy to dislike this balcanic capital, with its sufferings, traffic jams, with its buildings which never matches to the neighborhood. To discover the secret charm of Bucharest you need some patience, a good guide and the right weather! If all these preconditions are filled, Bucharest will seduce you, there is no chance to escape. The city's museums, monuments, fountains and exceptional churches, as also the neoclassic palaces are able to satisfy any art freak. The collector of living human canvas will be also a victim of Bucharest spell.

The many pubs and restaurants in Downtown/centrul vechi are very fashioned  and thus  overcrowded day and night

An area of Bucharest who will definitely fascinate is the historic centre of Bucharest, as described in the Architectural Tour of Bucharest. There are many hidden places in this area, and also some interesting places which you can simply go by, without noticing their mysterious charm.  This area stretches between dambovita, Calea Victoriei, University and the Boulevard Ion I.C. Bratianu. The modern Piata Unirii is a kind of City Center, and not far away, in the St George market is actually the Kilometer zero of Romania (all the road distances are measured starting from this point). The high sad blocks of flats on the Boulevard Ioan I.C. Bratianu are only hiding the Historical Centre, with its eclectic architecture. You will remark and recognize Bauhaus, rococo and baroque style, (no Gangnam style in the architecture, please). 

Since a few years the area is again in!. In fashion, I mean. It is covered with many clubs and pubs, where you can dance the Gangnam style. This area was populated a few centuries ago by skilled traders from Balkans, Central Europe and Armenia, which build houses in different styles. Then emerged the motels and businesses. One of the main streets in the area, Lipscani, has a name of a very interesting origin: Lipsca is in Romanian the German city of Leipzig , and the traders settled on this street. Gabroveni is another street in Bucharest downtown; here lived the fabrics traders from Gabrovo, Bulgaria.

Restaurant from Pasage Vilacross

Observe the old buildings, and think to their long history, starting at least in 1840 and to the many fires and earthquakes they got to face! On the street Hanu cu tei there is a nice art gallery, but also some fancy boutiques, and the street Sticlary means glass producers.

This downtown is an area of contrasts: old fashioned boutiques, street vendors, gipsies houses are next to fancy clubs, designed by vogue artists, resulting an unforgetable atractiv mix. 

Don't miss, please on Lipscani street the respectful building of Romanian National Bank, where you can borow some money if the locals seem to expensive to you. You may also not to miss the rounded building of Tehnoimport on Doamnei street (the name means Lady, and refers to the wife of the Prince Serban Cantacuzino, who build the Biserica Doamnei!)

Also important, The Stavropoleos Church, a typical orthodoxe one, maybe even a little too decorated and artficial. And the last hit is the picturesque glass-covered Pasaj Macca-Vilacross, offering at any day or night hour a strange atmosphere.

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