The hidden secrets of Craiova history

Visiting the picturesque Craiova you are not aware of the rich long history of the city. It starts with the Dacian fortress of Pelendava, followed by a fort of the winning Romans, used probably as  a base for further attacks.

The origin of the name is subject of disputes: a theory says, it would come from Slavian word cral= king, and another one sustains the name coming from the wealthy powerful family Craiovescu. The name appeared in documents in the XVth century, and a century latter the city experiences its golden age, under the ruler Mihai Viteazu, Romanian hero, who was first governor here in Craiova. Afterwards he was awarded ruller of Wallachia, and managed to unify all the three Romanian states of the time (Wallachia, Transilvania, and Moldavia). But the bigger powers, first Austria, did not agree the idea of such a big and strong Romanian state, and this Union showed to be artificially and did not last. The Oltenia Capital owed its wealth to the fairs, cow trade and crafts.

Towntown Craiova with Piata Unirii is a good place for a walk

The Turks are going to transform Craiova in ruins in 1774. The following plague from 1795, a fire and a earthquake caused a certain decay of Craiova, which started again to prosper in the XIXth century. Craioca took part together with Bucharest, Iasi, Sibiu and Cluj to the many events of the XIXth century leading to the Romanian Independence. In the XIXth century Craiova manages to prosper again, due to the oil reserves from the vicinity, which brought many other industries in the city. This industrialization of Craiova was further promoted by the communist regime, and the well known communists blocks of flats emerged by hundreds in the city (I can reveal you another secret, Ceausescu was born in Oltenia!).

The Art Museum in Craiova is a must see for any tourist, even wine afficionado

Much later, in the 70's appeared an University in Craiova, as the Culture life was not so intense here. Nowadays all the factories experience bad time, and the city is no more so wealthy and prosperous. Nevertheless, you can't miss Craiova, is the crossroads and Capital of the all region. You have many things to do in Craiova, but one day shall be enough, before going further to Bulgaria, Portile de Fier, or Transilvania.

Observe and admire the wise positioning of Craiova, between hills and plains. Go in the downtown, take a walk in the wonderful Romanescu park, very similar to an English park, which is the locals' main option for relaxing. Observe the Architecture styles of the buildings in the center, from Brancovan to neoclassic. Don't miss the spectacular Art Museum, on the main promenade of Piata Unirii. The cute building was erected 1905 for a wealthy local. In 1939 it served as a refuge for the Polish President escaping from the invading  German troops. Nowadays it hosts some interesting collections, making the locals so proud. First of all, prepare to rediscover Brancusi, which started his activity in Craiova. Again, his masterpieces are special totally, going to the quitessence of substance and life. Brancusi simply managed to carve ideas! The next rooms host Romanian classical painters like Amman, Petrascu, Tuculescu, Pallady.

Not far from Craiova you can discover the vineyards from Sadova and Vanju Mare. Thus you will combine mind and spirit, body and soul.

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 5 reasons to visit  Curtea de Arges

If you go from Bucharest to Sibiu one option is crossing the mountains through Transfagarasan, a spectacular  road in the mountains, crowned by international jury to be one of the most spectacular worldwide. Shortly before the mountains, you drive through Curtea de Arges.

In Curtea de Arges everything happens on the main street, the long Bulevard Basarab Ist

This town could seem insignificant and not worthing a visit, being similar with other grey sad meaningless Romanian towns. But the true is very different, even on the contrary: Curtea De Arges needs your time and attention, even if it doesn't ask for them!

First of all, a reason is the wonderful position, in the middle of the hills. You can already see the mountains, and feel them, sometimes there is a strong breeze in the town. Curtea de Arges has a clean mountain air and a special flair. On the near hills there are orchard and forests, you might have the opportunity to find here by the locals (no chance in supermarkets) tasty fruit jams and marmelades. Really unbelievable the huge difference of taste between these genuine products and what you can find in the international. supermarkets!

The breattaking Bishop's Church and Monastery from Curtea de Arges attracts any eye with its twisted towers

Another reason to pay a visit in Curtea de Arges is the simple fact, that this towns is one of the oldest in Romania. It was grounded in the VIIIth century, and strongly decayed  afterwards.  But in the XIVth century Basarab I, the grounder of Wallachia, manages to rebuild it and makes it the Capital of the new state. The town flourishes due to the trade with Sibiu, over the mountains. The ruins of the former Princely Court can still be seen in the downtown. The growth and the wealthy of Curtea de Arges lasted 2 centuries only, because in the XVIth century the Capital of Wallachia has been moved first in Targoviste, and then to Bucharest.

The Princely Church St.Nicholas from Curtea de Arges in the old Court.

Curtea de Arges hosts a few Medieval churches, which are among the most beautiful in Romania, real masterpieces. Two of them are not to be missed: The Bishop's Church and Monastery, and the Royal Church St. Nicholas.

The Bishop's Church was founded at 1512 by the ruler Neagoe Basarab, and accomplished by his follower Radu de la Afumati. Very isolated, almost hidden between leaves, the church is very compact and attractive, due to its twisted towers.  You'll need some time to observe all the oriental  ornaments, birds and plants. These ornaments will be repeated inside, on the floor, or when you will discover the breathtaking twelve columns (after entering a superb door). The church has also other ornaments, Venice mosaics, which have been partially destroyed by an earthquake and moved to the National Art Museum in Bucharest. The French architect Lecomte de Nouy renovated the church at 1875, replacing the mosaics with modern paintings, mainly golden. The church serves also as royal cemetery: here in the church sleep are buried the founders Neagoe basarab and radu de la Afumati, but also the King Ferdinand I and the Queen Maria, King Carol I and the Queen Elisabeth .

The original painting of 1352 in the Royal Church

Not very far is the Manole's fountain with a vey interesting legend.. Manole was the master who build the church, and observed more times that the wall collapsed. Desperately, he took the decision to insert in the building walls the first person who will come . Unfortunately for him, it was even his beloved wife! Shortly, the church has been terminated, and the work was not seen before, due to the special secrets of Manole. But the ruler did not accept that other personalities could enjoy similar churches, and took the decision to take manole as a prisoner, inside the church. Trying to escape by air, similar to Icarus, he collapsed and died. Where he falled emerged a water source and was build this fountain!

Curtea de Arges is nowadays a very long town, build mainly on Bulevardul Basarab, where you can find all important attractions: banks, hotels and restaurants, pastry shops, everything is here. Even a statue of Basarab I is on this boulevard, of course. Next to the statue, the princely church St. Nicholas, build even by this ruler, and restored in1750. the byzantine structure of Wallachia's oldest building is untouched. The painting are the original ones, but still very living, in an excellent shape. The founder is buried here, of course, and the former Court is near the Church.

I think you never thought to find so many things in a small town like Curtea de Arges. It definitively deserves one day from your time. From Curtea de Arges you can go to Sibiu, or to Pitesti, or Bucharest.

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The hidden secrets of wine tasting

Everybody, or almost everybody, likes a glass of wine in a selected company. It is not compulsory, that everybody becomes a professional wine taster or a somelier.

The main difference between a somelier and a normal trained wine taster, is the simple fact that the somelier needs to speak loud about his experience, and is able to do that, mastering the right vocabulary. Remember, every science is first of all a matter of vocabulary, as a craft is first of all a matter of skill!

But, let's go back to our glass of (Romanian) wine! If the wine comes in a glass, you might want to use a clarifying glass. Putting the wine in the clarifying glass is a spectacular part of the tasting, and many people don't understand the major importance of it. Thus the wine clarifies and simultaneously is airing, emphasizing its natural qualities. As nowadays most producers filter their marketed wines thoroughly, in many situations the clarifying stage is not necessary anymore, with only some exceptions, e.g. if you observe some sediments, or you taste a strong red old wine, which requires for sure clarifying.

Judging the color of a wine is the first step while wine tasting

Next time when you are going to taste a glass of light white wine, e.g Ottonel, Chianti or whatsoever, and the waiter intends to use the clarifying glass, tell him please to spare the effort, that wine simply doesn't require that method, and even doesn't support it.

So, one thing is clear, go to the next step: pour in the tasting wine, and please don't be impacient. Watch carefully the wine first, from longer or shorter distance. Observe the color, the tone, the shade and compare with other similar wines you tested before. Maybe this wine is particular, due to soil, climate, harvesting etc (terroir use to say the French). Incline the glass and observe how the wine humidifies the glass, and if it lets any traces. Observe continuosly the aspect and continuity of the forming pelicula. Smell the wine near the glass and by bringing the smell to you from the distance, with your hand.

On wine tasting always use a spittoon, no matter how difficult is it ot you.  Not using  means getting drunk very quickly

Lat, but not least, taste the wine. But never taste and swallow, experience it! Feel the liquid with all your tongue, and bear in mind that the tastes are only sour, sweet,salt with their tones. Anything else you might feel is again flavor/smell, coming from the nose which communicates with your mouth.

By the end, spit the wine, no matter how difficult is it to you.
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Must see in Romania: Craiova

The city of Craiova is doubtless a regional Capital of Oltenia, Romanian province. Which is maybe the most Romanian provinces of all, and the Romanians from this province are much more passionate and hot blooded, comparing with other provinces, like Transilvania and Moldavia.

Downtown of Craiova at night, with spectacular fountain and the monumental City Hall. Also spectacular in daylight. and a magnetic target for a long walk, among locals and tourists

The people of Oltenia have something special, you can't get in other parts of the country. They are very proud, they are very patriots and have a special sense of humor, and all these things make them a favorite subject of the popular jokes. They speak quickly and ue a special form of past Tense, making them so easy to recognize. Oltenia and Craiova gave some distinguished personalities to the Romanian and  Universal history. 

Mihai Viteazul (Michael the Brave) was first a ban of Craiova, and after Ruler of all Wallachia. He even succeed unifying for the first time all the Romanian countries (Wallachia, Moldavia and Transilvania)

In Middle Age the province of Oltenia has been ruled by the Craiovescu family, from Craiova of course. They hold the title of bans, and were entitles to make coins with their faces (and today, ban in Romanian means money!).Earlier, in the antic Roman times, on these places has been settled the fortress of Pelendava, due to the excellent regional position, to the middle of the way between mountains and Danube.

St Dumitru Church is a brillant example of Architecture

Today, is really a pleasure living in Craiova, and an event to visit it. The local park is one of the most beautiful Romaniawide, while the Art Museum one of the richest. Besides, you have so many things to do in Craiova: e.g a long walk in the Downtown, admiring the old Architecture (e.g. Madona Dudu church, City Hall, National college, the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave, a Romanian national hero. You can find also a leading Romanian National Theatre, and if you are lucky you can even get a show of Tudor Gheorghe, very well known and beloved Romanian Composer and Singer. Tudor Gheorghe is an amazing one man show, holding a full hall in his hand for hours.

From Craiova you can make shorter or longer trips in the neighborhood. Visit Targu Jiu and trive on Transalpina, offering you a unique panorama of the mountains, and reach Transilvania and Sibiu. A special mention for Ranca, a winter resort, where you can ski. Another possible short trip, also in the mountains, is Petrosani and Valea Jiului. If you are not a mountain freak, bag you pardon: go in the opposite direction, to the Danube, in the port of Calafat. And if you are in the mood to combine the mountain and the water, look for Drobeta Turnu Severin and Portile de Fier (Iron Gates), which offer memorable landscapes. Very near is also the vineyard from Segarcea, where we can organize wine tasting.

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Enter Romania, visiting Arad

If you come by car to Romania from West there are big chances that the first city you meet is whether Arad or Oradea. Meeting anyone of them means an excellent publicity for Romania, they are nice, clean, peaceful, and very similar in many directions, but with a little advantage for Arad.

I you enter Romania coming from the West, and the first important city you meet is Arad, you may have an excellent first impression about this country

Arad lies in a plain and proudly counts 150000 inhabitants (20 % Hungarians) is a major target for foreign investments and enjoys a certain prosperity (the Romanian president Traian Basescu is the Godfather of the Mayor of Arad, only one of the possible explanations). Amazing in Arad is the Center, on Bulevardul Revolutiei, when you can see many old buildings, Secession style, like the City Hall, Catholic Cathedral and even the Railway station. Also a monumental Orthodox Church still in building state.

The magnificent Evangelic church from Arad, buid in Secession style, on the place of the former  fortress of Arad. Nowadays, Arad is among the few cities from Transilvania which haven't a fortress anymore.

Amazing in Arad is the evolution of the population: in 1712 when Hungarians beat the Turks, conquering the city, 60 % of the population was Romanian. In 1918 Arad and the rest of Transilvania unified with Romania, and the last known census from the Habsburgic times, namely from 1912, counts more than 70 % Hungarians. Strange, isn't it?

On the nice peaceful Bulevardul Revolutiei I have been honored to be the guest of Hotel Continental Forum Arad, the city's biggest and best, with a group of happy tourists from Norway from PR Norge, on behalf of Karpaten Tourism. Next day I was supposed to leave very early, at 6: 30, but through the devoted work of Mr Dumitru from the kitchen I did not leave the hotel hungry!

Very particular for Arad, comparing with other cities from Transilvania, it has no fortress. It was a fortress for sure, build after the Mongol invasion from the 13th century, but meanwhile totally destroyed. On the place of the fortress you will find the magnificent Evangelic Church. But there are strong compensations, and only 30 km away in Minis there is a vineyard specialized in Reds, specially Merlot!

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Must see in Romania: Cluj-Napoca

Cluj-Napoca has been for years the official capital of Transilvania, a province in the former Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Today, not so officially anymore, this city enjoys the same status.

The Orthodox Cathedral of Cluj-Napoca, with the Monument of Avram Iancu, a Romanian hero

Discovering Cluj-Napoca from any direction is an event for your eyes. You come from the mountains, and you see from distance the city, in a depression. You will admire it at once and fall in it, wishing to know everything possible about this city, one of Romania's most beautiful . Comparing it with Bucharest with its eclectic architecture is in the clear advantage of Cluj-Napoca (German Klausenburg, Hungarian Koloszvar). In the centre, Cluj Napoaca acts very Central European, similar maybe to Budapest.

The Hotel Continenta, also known as New York Palace, is an architecture jewel in the centre of Cluj-Napoaca

Cluj-Napoca has a huge scientific and cultural potential. The actual leader of the Romanian Academy is born in Cluj-Napoca and made here his researches. Cluj-Napoca, also known simply as Cluj, is the main target of the foreign investors in Romania, after Bucharest. There are plans to develop Cluj Napoca to the unbelievable level of 20 Millions inhabitants within next 50 years. The people in Cluj Napoca (nowadays 20 % Hungarians) are usually high educated, very serious, respecting there words. It is not very easy becoming friend with these people, but once you have their confidence, be sure to receive a dinner invitation, where you will able to enjoy palinca (plum made strong brandy), good wines and sarmalute. Despite the cosmopolite aspect of the city, the people don't forget their roots and traditions.

City Hall from Cluj-Napoca is another monument of architecture

Entering Cluj-Napoca you will notice first the most modern buildings from the last 20 years, some ruinated industrial factories from Ceausescu time and even the communist blocks which the inhabitants dream to leave (but of course, not all of them can afford to do it). Going further, deeper in the city's heart, you will discover the amazing center, with the Catholic Cathedral (St Michael's Church), hotels and restaurants, cafes and museums. Visiting it during the peak hours with a group of Swiss tourists from Twerenbold on behalf of Karpaten Turism was very nice, but I couldn't organize a lunch because all the restaurants were overcrowded. That means a big city indeed.

The Catholic Cathedral of Cluj-Napoca

Special mention for the riding statue of Matthias Corvinus, former ruler of Transilvania. The Hungarians say he was Hungarian, but the Romanian say also he was Romanian, or at least to have a Romanian origin. Not so important anymore, the mutual relations start to improve.

The Synagogue of Cluj-Napoca is an historic building, but Jews are unfortunately not anymore to find in Cluj-Napoca

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Myths, legends and facts about Dracula

Bram Stoker's book "Dracula" is purely fiction, nevertheless based on some historical truths. Personally, I was first shocked and hurt by the book, and its references, but nowadays as a travel guide I find it very useful for promoting the Romanian tourism.

Vlad Tepes Dracula, a scupture from his birthhouse, which is nowadays a good restaurant in Sighisoara.

Those undesired references to Transilvania and Romania turned to be very good for having some fun. There are some places in Romania who had nothing to do with Vlad Tepes "Dracula" during Middle Age, but nowadays exploit its legend and organize an excellent marketing for it (e.g. Bran Castle, Fantanele Castle on Borgo Pass, Snagov Monastery etc).

Medieval Weapons, contemporary with Vlad Tepes Dracula, as exposed in  Restaurant Casa Vlad Dracul

The true facts in brief: Vlad Tepes Dracula was born in Sighisoara and ruled in the Romanian Valachia. Nowadays his birthhouse became a restaurant, where is also possible to see a sculpture of the cruel ruler, together with some Medieval weapons. While his father ruled Vallachia he has been send to Istanbul, as a guarantee for a good behavior to the protecting Ottoman Turks. There he learned a lot about the Turkish language and culture, but started to look his expedition in Istanbul as a captivity, hating the Turks to dead.

The Myth of Dracula is an excellent opportunity for having some fun

Later, during his main reign of 1456-1462, based on his natural born addiction to violence and his hate against Turks, he managed to do 100000 victims, most of them Turks. As an observation, the number is perhaps exaggerated (probably doubled or tripled) and the local political enemies have not been spared.Most of them falled through impalement, his favorite torture and execution method. He choosed probably this method, because he knew what a disgrace is for a Muslim perishing in this manner.

Eating in Dracula House is always an event

Starting from these facts, the book of  Bram Stroker tell the story of the count Dracula moving from Transilvania to London, and being addicted to blood and violence. Simply fiction, of course, but a good start for learning much more about Romania indeed. It even happened in Dracula castle from Piatra Fantanele on Borgo Pass, that a tourist complained about Dracula pawing her breast. I tried to explain her that Dracula is dead centuries ago, but it was useless!

I have tried to select all the places significantly tied to Dracula in Transilvania and Romania, and proposed a few interesting tours in Transilvania and Romania. Be sure to use this long hot Romanian Autumn, which is really fantastic.

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Romania saw from Switzerland

I had the wonderful opportunity to guide a group of tourists from Swiss, unfortunately only during their last day of stay, coming from the company Twerenbold and on behalf on Karpaten Tourism.  It was a big pleasure and a deep honor assisting all these people in discovering Romania, and working together with the driver Paul Schmidt.

The Swiss group had the wonderful opportunity to discover Romania in Autumn, which is a natural painter

How is Romania saw from the Alps, from upthere? The Swiss tourists coming to Romania whose guide I was really enjoyed the stay. They saw a good part of Romania, and was very interested for the painted churches (all of them were practising catholics, and insisted for visiting 8 Monasteries from Bucovina. They loved it very much, they sung together with the nuns in a few monasteries, and admired the paintings. We concluded again, that between the Orthodox and the Catholic beliefs are not so big differences, well known as the Florentin points). Amazing and touching to discover once more, that all the things who unite us are much more important than the little things which separate us. The belief is almost the same, and the differences are only in details.

The painted church of Voronet is a masterpiece, and was very good appreciated by the religious tourists coming from Switzerland 

They visited also Sibiu/Hermannstadt and stayed long in its wonderful Medieval centre, with its Citadel and Liars' Bridge, putting their partners to the difficult test of sincerity! Unfortunately, no one was able to pass that test, and we had therefore very tensed moments. The best shape and disposition has been regained in Cluj-Napoca/Klausenburg, before the riding statue of Matei Corvin, a brave and controversial ruler of Transilvania (Romanians say he was a Romanian, but the Hungarians say on the contrary, he was Hungarian!). Amazing, but true, and very interesting in a city still hosting an important Hungarian minority (20 % of the total population of 400000 inhabitants). Cluj Napoca is very beloved by the Hungarians due to its Inteligentsia. Cluj Napoca is a wonderful example of Medieval flair combined with urban Easteuropean charm. Best place for a city break.

Cluj Napoca is surely one of the Romania's most beautiful and interesting cities

From Cluj to Oradea was a light shot for driver Paul Schmidt, as we were supposed to stay in Hotel Continental Forum****, the biggest and the best from Oradea! Good opportunity to systematize and evaluate the knowledge of the tourists about Romania, who still has many things to be discovered. Thus, the sad farewell turned into an opened invitation.

Hotel Continental Forum from Oradea, on the banks of Crisul River

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Best accommodation and meals in Romania

For visiting such a nice country like Romania you need an accommodation. If you are on a business trip, or your time is short, you have the normally first choice: big luxury hotel in a big city like Bucharest, Sibiu, Iasi etc. They have good standards and strive to maintain them. Amazing, the prices for accommodation and meals are comparable with the Western Europe prices, and it is really difficult to find a good accommodation  in the peak season under 60 Euros (nevertheless, please contact me for such a delicate thing, as I can give you all the necessary insider tips).

A luxury hotel is a good solution when visiting Romania  if you are in a hurry  and not on a budget

For the meals, never forget my secret tips: you can usually find the best offer in little restaurants or inns, under the name Meniul zilei: for 3 Euros you get a good three courses menu! This is one of the things keeping Romania attractive for the professional budget travelers!

Meniul Zilei for 3 Euros is probably the cheapest way to  eat  in Romania

Another tip for a traveler in Romania having more time and not staying necessary on a budget is the accommodation in little pensions scattered all over the country, but mainly in Bucovina, Bran, Sibiu. The human contacts you can find are really amazing, as the unforgettable meals you can get ( smelling and tasting fantastic, as are mainly green products). Thus you can meat a farmer, or a craftsman or even a country teacher who will be very happy hosting you and earning also something with this occasion! In the communist times these human contacts has been banned and punished by the Securitate, but today  this is one of the blossoming industries in Romania. Finding these places is not difficult: watch after "cazare" or "Zimmer frei" in the most important touristic attractions, airports, railways etc. Even here there is a huge difference between the established pensions and the locals with some free rooms concerning the conditions of lodging and prices (between 15-40 Euros). Take all the information needed when choosing a room: go and see it, ask for the agreement from the Ministry of Tourism ( preferable) and affiliation to associations and networks, avoiding the unpleasant surprises.

A pension offers board and lodging, and very pleasant human contacts

Camping places in Romania are for sure very cheap, but overcrowded on week ends and in the peak season (July-August). Not very many, you can find them in the hills or on the Black Sea coast. The Romanian go there in mass for longer stays. Don't have big expectations from the sanitation, they are underdimensioned and not properly maintained. You have also the chance to find the wooden houses, offering a minimum comfort and a limited intimacy. For the mountains freaks looking their ways in the Carpathians, there a few chalets offering shelter. Some of them are easy reachable, other not,offering a complete isolation; mostly are closed during winter.

In Bucovina, Neamt or near Horezu the monasteries offer shelter for the pilgrim. The offer is not very wide, the little number of beds is always not sufficient. You have quiet, peace, wonderful landscape, very low prices, but don't expect to a warm welcome. And never forget the night service, which can be noisy and unpleasant for the visitors.

A floating hotel is advisable in Danube Delta.

In the Danube Delta you can find the floating hotels, offering a good lodging for good prices, as also meals. And for those who are really on a tighten budget don't forget the youth hostels, where you can find sometimes big army dormitories of 10-20 beds

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