Epic monasteries by Bucharest

Supposing you are in Bucharest for a few days. You met the wonderful city with its hotels, restaurants, squares, monuments, museums etc. You are also sick on clubbing and dating,partying and drinking, you are not in the mood, or not so young anymore.

Now you need a relaxing day, only for yourself, which should also mean some action and is also supposed to  enrich yourself, from a spiritual point of view. Sending you again to a few orthodox monasteries does not mean that I wanna convert you. I respect very much other religions and beliefs, and the Romanian are also open minded and tolerant. Only stupid people are extremist and not able to understand the next of them embracing other convictions. I will propose you three monasteries very close to Bucharest. The selection is totally personal, based on my personal knowledge and experiences I had in the Romanian capital.

The huge Victory square mirrors all the city of Bucharest through the style mix of neighboring buildings

But, first of all, before leaving the proud city of Bucharest, please go to the Victory Square/Piata Victoriei where this tour starts. The Victory Square is a little miniature copy of the big city, and mirrors its eclectic, but charming mix of architecture styles. Please find and observe on one side the Residence of the Romanian Government, build at 1937, which looks over the all country with a strong disciplining eye. Nowadays the doubtless master there is the young unexperienced Victor Ponta, but this situation could change very quickly. Nomine odiosa, as the old  Latins used to say, and I only mention this already unpopular name just to remember him to stop being arrogant and self sufficient. on another side there are three museums one next to other. The oldest is Natural History Museum, named Grigore Antipa, its founder. It dates back from the XIXth museum. Last, but not least, on a side of the Square there are relatively new blocks of flat, 30-40 years old.

The Cernica monastery, by Bucharest, is a peace island, very close to the overcrowded  city

But let's finally leave the city, forgetting it, despite its secret magnetism. Drive first towards Constanta, and sop after only a few kilometers (or miles, o.k., I am a tolerant Romanian) and discover the Cernica Monastery, a place where many inhabitants of Bucharest go very often and are very happy doing that. Its picturesque position might be an explanation, there is an island of joy and peace, and has a lake next to it. Cernica is, of course, the name of his founder, in the first decades of the XVIIth century, namely the Governor Stirbei Cernica. There are actually three churches inside the monastery, which have been build successively during the XVIIIth century.

The caldarusani monastery might be almost impossible to pronounce, but is really wonderful and spectacular.

Not far away (nevertheless remember to be in an overcrowded big city, strangled by traffic jams), you may discover an older but nicer monastery, namely Caldarusani. Bag you pardon for the impossible pronouncing and orthoepy  of this Romanian word, name it as you wish if is easier and more convenient to you. Just don't forget to visit it, it is your time worth.

Last, but not least, The Comana Monastery, 30 km away from Bucharest. According the local legends, it has been build by the ruling prince Vlad The Splinter, also known as Dracula (due to Bram Stoker is the most notorious Romanian all times!). New archaeological diggings and discoveries have totally confirmed this legend! Nevertheless, stop dreaming to find something very spectacular tighten to Dracula in this monastery, there are other places living on the myth!

Comana Monastery was build by Vlad Tepes, according a  verified  local legend

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Most important things to know about Bucharest museums

In a city like Bucharest its museums are a special attraction, enhancing the the provocative charm of the Romanian Capital. There are for sure many museums in Bucharest, and every one of them requires more hours for a thorough visit and discover. You must only make the good choice from the rich collections of Bucharest museums according your specific wishes and hobbies.

I tried to make a personal selection, and these are the museums I usually visit and recommend. I would start with the National Romanian History Museum, residing in a wonderful Palace in the very center of Bucharest downtown. The building is a former headquarter of the very well respected and influential  Romanian Post, but no one could find a better location for a history museum. It dates back from the beginning of the XXth century, and breaths history. Even if you are not a history freak, it is good start for knowing the Romanian history, which is very rich and long. You must have notice the Roman origin of the Romanian language, and in the museum you will understand it better watching the fragments (copies) of the Roman Traianus' Column: the mighty Romans have conquered the ancient Dacians, giving birth to the Romanian people and language. Many other artifacts, temporary or permanent exhibitions are waiting for you!

The Romanian national History museum hosts many artifacts, permanent or temporary exhibition

The History Museum lies on Calea Victoriei/Victory way,  where took place the military parades a few time ago. earlier, 300 years ago maybe, it was totally wood covered and the fancy horse wagons could drive in the best conditions, and was known as Podul mogosoaiei. Follow the street, heading north, in a nice walk and discover the National Art Museum, in a Royal palace, which Ceausescu has also used while he was a president in the communist time. Observe the nice building , its eclectic architecture style, but don't miss the paintings. They are simply amazing and wonderful, many Romanian and foreign masters.

Many Romanian and foreign painting masters can be seen in the Romanian Art Museum, a former Royal palace

Further, not very far, easy accessible and reachable by walking, is the Government residence in the huge Piata Victoriei/Victory square. Right here, in the big parks around, find other three Bucharest museums: Romanian peasant's; Geology museum and the Natural History Museum. It is a happy location here, you can visit any of them, or all of them. Important to know anyway, in my opinion, anyone of them is a visit worth. But you may also visit none of them, and keep walking with your last drops of energy, reaching the Village Museum, which is a must see. It is in the middle of Herastrau, the biggest park of the city, and has many traditional houses from the different parts of Romania, which are old, traditional and genuine. The craftsmen are proudly showing their works, sometimes even producers of bio products are exhibiting. But a visit here is an event always, and gives you a broader view on Romania and enjoying all your senses.

This wonderful building hosts The Museum of the National Peasant

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Most epic markets and monuments in Bucharest

Bucharest is a city with a strong personality, acquired during its long history. Once named The Little Paris, as the elites and aristocracy have been educated in France, its iconic downtown reminds in many places of this first love of the Romanians.

Walking, riding or driving on the iconic Boulevard Regina Elisabeta and observing its amazing old houses, you feel already in a strange atmosphere fin de siecle. In the square C.A.Rosetti, former prominent Romanian politician, it is a monument dedicated to the master, creation of the German architect W.C. Hegel. The statue is a masterpiece itself, showing a big artistic intrinsic value. All the traces of his face are perfectly designed and engraved, and the honored wears a fancy suit (for that time) and trench coat over it. The bas-reliefs on the statue show the crucial moments of the Romanian history where he was present and took part   very actively (the Unification from 1859 and the Declaration of Independence in 1877).

Monument of C.A Rosetti, prominent Romanian politician of the XIXth century

Not far from  it, one of the strangest building and museum of Bucharest: The Fire Tower/Foisorul de Foc. Nevertheless, remember that during the Middle age the houses of Bucharest where mostly build on wood, and the city falled more times victim to devastating fires. Nowadays, the building can seem weird and useless, but has a big emotional value. You can visit inside the special Museum of Firemen, with interesting data and tools.

The square  Pache Protopopescu and the controversial fountain

Observe in the area the Boulevard Pache Protopescu, a residential area. Pache Protopescu was the mayor of the city, which used to have a statue in the square Pache Protopescu. Unfortunately, the statue disappeared, but you can see a nice fountain instead. many people would love having back the statue of the former Mayor, destroyed by the communists when they took over in 1948.

Now please turn around and direct towards Piata Romana, or the Roman Square, a good name to underline the Roman origin and sympathies of the Romanian people. France has been looked for long time as the older  Latin sister, and you will notice for sure many similarities its rich culture. In the Roman Square observe the statue the Capitol Wolf, o copy of the original one located in Rome.

The original of Lupa capitolina is in Rome. The Bucharest's Lupa Capitolina  is one of the most nomadic city statues, and changed its location many times. Meanwhile is already removed from Piata Romana.

Observe now carefully the square, and on one of its sides The  Economy High School, a nice old building, with an ornamental ball on it. There is a wonderful underground legend about, and I wonder if is convenient or corect unvealing it to you, but we are grown up, I hope, and it is not such a bad history. According this myth, when the first student girl shall finish the High School as a virgin, the ball will fall down. 80 years after the inauguration of the building the ball is still sitting there!

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Epic palaces in Bucharest with myths an legends

As I love Bucharest so much, can give you a reliable tip: there are actually two or more cities of Bucharest, and you can observe all these layers entering the big city from any directions, but specially from Ploiesti and Brasov.

Watch first carefully the modern buildings, car repairing workshops, wonderful villas with modern amenities, this is the first level, the most recent one. It is followed by industrial factories from the Ceausescu's communist times, with their sad blocks of flats, really living siloses, whose inhabitants dream desperately to live definitively (only 10 % succeed!). The last layer consists of official or private buildings, build up to 1940, in very different Architecture styles, to the delight of any visitor. The resulting eclectic mix is the mainly reason to love Bucharest from the first sight, for any locals or visitors. Here is the heart and the head of the city indeed!

The CEC Palace at night, but it is no less impressive in daylight

Interior of the renowned CEC Palace. To visit it inside you must pretend to be a bank client!

In Downtown Bucharest the buildings are very different not only regarding the style, but also concerning the intrinsic value! The Parliament Palace is very new, huge and controversial; because of it an important part of the historic Bucharest has been sacrificed. Moving and destroying a few churches from this huge area triggered the curses which will kill Ceausescu ( popular myth!). Only a few steps away, crossing the dambovita river over the Izvor Bridge find, please, and observe the downtown, on Calea Victoriei. Next to it, on Stavropoleos street, an important target which you are not going to miss. Simply not allowed to waste the opportunity to visit Caru cu bere/The beer wagon, even for me, which I am normally a wine drinker and afficionado.

Caru cu Bere remains even today one of the Bucharest's best restaurants. Build at 1876 by a German architect (you could guess, I am sure) in New Gothic style, keeps inside the same obsolete atmosphere, and looks simply like a German brauerei from Bavaria e.g. It is overcrowded at any hour when is opened, due to the excellent kitchen and wonderful services. Don't be scared please by the noble local, it is still possible eating in Caru cu bere on a budget! At noon, e.g., there are easy to find some special offers, e.g. The Student menu, or the Senior menu, which are very cheap. Don't dare ordering any of them, you will be probably asked to show a document proofing one of these qualities!

This is maybe the best location for the Romanian National History Museum!

Back in Calea Victoriei, with a full stomach and a wonderful feeling, just to visit shorter or longer two other important palaces, real landmarks of Bucharest. First of it, the magnificent palace of Deposits and Economy bank/ CEC Palace, build at 1900 on a project from french Architect Gottereau, on the very place where an iconic church of the city was lieing. It has a fantastic eclectic style, fancy interiors with smart decorations. For visiting inside, is very difficult for big organized groups, but easier for individual, pretending to be the bank clients!

Just opposite to the CEC bank, a former residence of Post Administration hosts nowadays The national History Museum, build at 1894-1900 by the Romanian architect Savulescu on the ground of an important family of Romanian landlords, namely Balaceanu. Inside fantastic artifacts tighten with the rich history of the country would welcome you, it is worth a visit from you: fragments of the Roman Traian's Column, and the world renowned gold collection "The brood hen with its chicken"

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Epic  stories about the most famous churches of Bucharest

As you know Bucharest nowadays, it is a seducing capital, perfectly mixing the most modern buildings and hotels with the old ones. Bucharest is worth a visit for any people, of course, but first of all for any Architecture student, due to its unique Styles mix.

One of the most important part of the Romanian history  and tradition are the churches, and Bucharest is of course not an exception. Near its picturesque fountains, wonderful palaces or sad communist blocks of flats, the churches are for sure a landmark for the big city. At the Romanian countryside, the church is supposed to be the highest building. You can realize, that in Bucharest was impossible to keep this old unwritten traditions. The Bucharest churches still hold full of pride the famous names of their founders, members of the renowned aristocratic Romanian families. Nowadays the churches remained small islands of peace and worship in the middle of a busy city. Locals and visitors as well find them very lovely and inviting.

The curses triggered by the moving of Mihai Voda church caused the tragic death of Ceausescu and his wife!

The Michael Church/Biserica Mihai Voda was founded by the Romanian prince and ruler Michael the Brave and is an amazing and convincing splendid example of  Oriental Byzantine Architecture. His grounder build it on a hill, but when Ceausescu build the new Downtown, the church has been removed by a tank behind the blocks of flat. On that occasion the treasure hunters searched desperately for special prey, but did not find anything. The curses triggered on this occasion have finally hit Ceausescu.

The Patriarchy Cathedral rules over the city from the top of a hill!

The Patriarchy church has a much better position, and has been build in the XVIIth century; the noble prince and ruler Constantin Brancoveanu added later the bell tower. The church hosts nowadays the relics of St Dimitrie The New, the Protector of the Romanian capital. The impressive palace nearby was up to year 2000 the headquarter of the Deputies Chamber from the Romanian parliament.

The small Bucur church is accounted to the City founder, the shepherd called Bucur, which is not accurate, historically speaking, as the charming church dates back from the XVIIIth century! Please close your eyes about it, take it easy and don't ask so many questions!

The Good News Church; the news were good for sure for the ruler crowned years for centuries!

Very old, maybe the oldest, is doubtless The Good News Church/Biserica Buna Vestire, from the old court! Build around 1550, it has been for two centuries the place where the local rulers from Wallachia  have been crowned.

Smaller, newer, but very beautiful and even arogant, is the Stavropoleos church, build around 1720, by a Greek monk. It is after all a magnificent example of Brancoveanu Architecture style

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Short trips from Bucharest 

During your longer or shorter stay in the Romanian Capital you have so many possibilities for entertainment, visiting museums, parks, having sophisticated dinners in fancy restaurants, etc. You can discover your own Bucharest, as it is really charming and has something for everyone!

Supposing nevertheless that you have the time and the mood for leaving shortly the huge city, you have also many options. City breaks in Ploiesti or Brasov could be a solution; also Pitesti, Buzau, Focsani, Galati or Braila will welcome you. But I have another propositions for you: visit a royal, refined and mystery palace, only a few kilometers away, namely in Mogosoaia.

The former ruler of Wallachia, Constantin Brancoveanu, was  a skilled diplomat, an art freak, who enjoyed wine and parties very much.

The position of the palace is breathtaking: in the middle of a huge picturesque possession with forest, park and lake, telling a secret story about an important Romanian ruler from XVIIth century. His name was Constantin Brancoveanu, and he was born at 1654, in an old aristocratic family. He was a gold and book prince, an excellent diplomat, enjoyed wine and parties (like many other Romanians). He has been also a Macchiavelli  disciple and follower, as an athlet Christi. . Due to his building and achievements,his complicated temper and tragic faith, he is the essence of the Romanian Renaissance. He succeeded to keep 25 years of peace, which was a good period for arts, crafts and everyday life. He even developed a personal architectural style, Brancoveanu style, present in many places of Romania.

The wonderful, yet mystery, Romanian Palace of Mogosoaia,  build in the Romanian Renaissance style

But the most important and iconic place for the Brancoveanu style is even the above mentioned Palace of Mogosoaia. The rich Brancoveanu bought Mogosoaia  at 1702, ordering immediately building of a smaller Versailles and parallel Royal court over there. For visiting the Mogosoaia Palace head first to Targoviste, but stop in the village Mogosoaia, and discover the Palace by walking.  Observe first the large shadowing alley bordered by big chestnut tree, and enter the left church, watching on the walls a painting of Brancoveanu and his family.

The Royal church from the left still hosts paintings of Constantin Brancoveanu and  his family

After balancing long time between the big powers around (Turks, Russians, Austrians) he was executed by the Turks at 1712 in Istanbul. The Turks asked him first to convert to Islam, but he refused, and was executed with his four sons together. History is so cruel and unfair sometimes! His sudden exile and decapitation let opened many speculations about its wealthy treasure, which has been not found up today, despite all the desperate searches, similar with Dracula's. Maybe you will be the lucky one!

After his tragic death, The Palace of Mogosoaia decayed and ruined, until 1912 when another Prince, Bibescu, decides to restaurate the palace, according to original plans and indications. We owe him the today aspect of Mogosoaia! The Palace itself is big, strong, but its lines are in a perfect harmony. On the ground floor, eight rooms for the servants, and at the first floor, the Royal flat and the huge Council room. On the side with lake view, observe what is maybe the most interesting thing in the all palace: A SUPERB BALCONY, VERY INTERESTING AND REFINED, a real oasis of rest and contemplation.

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The secret charm of Bucharest

The Romanian Capital stretches on a huge neverending plain, the Romanian plain. Neither spectacular rivers, nor hill or mountains are able to put the big city in good light, and thus it is so easy to dislike this balcanic capital, with its sufferings, traffic jams, with its buildings which never matches to the neighborhood. To discover the secret charm of Bucharest you need some patience, a good guide and the right weather! If all these preconditions are filled, Bucharest will seduce you, there is no chance to escape. The city's museums, monuments, fountains and exceptional churches, as also the neoclassic palaces are able to satisfy any art freak. The collector of living human canvas will be also a victim of Bucharest spell.

The many pubs and restaurants in Downtown/centrul vechi are very fashioned  and thus  overcrowded day and night

An area of Bucharest who will definitely fascinate is the historic centre of Bucharest, as described in the Architectural Tour of Bucharest. There are many hidden places in this area, and also some interesting places which you can simply go by, without noticing their mysterious charm.  This area stretches between dambovita, Calea Victoriei, University and the Boulevard Ion I.C. Bratianu. The modern Piata Unirii is a kind of City Center, and not far away, in the St George market is actually the Kilometer zero of Romania (all the road distances are measured starting from this point). The high sad blocks of flats on the Boulevard Ioan I.C. Bratianu are only hiding the Historical Centre, with its eclectic architecture. You will remark and recognize Bauhaus, rococo and baroque style, (no Gangnam style in the architecture, please). 

Since a few years the area is again in!. In fashion, I mean. It is covered with many clubs and pubs, where you can dance the Gangnam style. This area was populated a few centuries ago by skilled traders from Balkans, Central Europe and Armenia, which build houses in different styles. Then emerged the motels and businesses. One of the main streets in the area, Lipscani, has a name of a very interesting origin: Lipsca is in Romanian the German city of Leipzig , and the traders settled on this street. Gabroveni is another street in Bucharest downtown; here lived the fabrics traders from Gabrovo, Bulgaria.

Restaurant from Pasage Vilacross

Observe the old buildings, and think to their long history, starting at least in 1840 and to the many fires and earthquakes they got to face! On the street Hanu cu tei there is a nice art gallery, but also some fancy boutiques, and the street Sticlary means glass producers.

This downtown is an area of contrasts: old fashioned boutiques, street vendors, gipsies houses are next to fancy clubs, designed by vogue artists, resulting an unforgetable atractiv mix. 

Don't miss, please on Lipscani street the respectful building of Romanian National Bank, where you can borow some money if the locals seem to expensive to you. You may also not to miss the rounded building of Tehnoimport on Doamnei street (the name means Lady, and refers to the wife of the Prince Serban Cantacuzino, who build the Biserica Doamnei!)

Also important, The Stavropoleos Church, a typical orthodoxe one, maybe even a little too decorated and artficial. And the last hit is the picturesque glass-covered Pasaj Macca-Vilacross, offering at any day or night hour a strange atmosphere.

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The most important things to know about the Bucharest fountains

Every  fountain, including the little ones, keeps in it something from the living water source located in the Eden, near the life tree, and promising endless youth,immortality and wisdom. Situated to the gates of the Bible fortresses, the fountains represented not only the vital source of water, but also a place for miracle meetings and new starts.

The Fountains from Piata Unirii are the newest and  most spectacular of Bucharest, build by Ceausescu during his communist regime

Very similar, in the Romanian villages, the fountains always represented an agora, where everybody could meat anyone, exchanging informations. The fountains from the Romanian villages have been also a favorite secret dating place (only at night, of course). Beyond everything else, the fountains keep an unknown relation with the sacred things. An Orthodoxe christening  consists in immersing the crying scared baby in water, while the other ones are very happy. Furthermore, every fountain when is ready to use, is christened by a priest.

The Cantacuzino Fountain from Carol Park is one of the oldest in the today Bucharest

When Bucharest started its history at 1456 was not different than a village. Few centuries latter, after becoming a capital and gaining importance and ambitions, Bucharest started to think deeper to its aspects, including fountains. In Bucharest the monumental fountains appeared even before the statues.

Among the first mentions: the fountains build by the ruler Nicolae Mavrogheni by 1786, at the end of Podul Mogosoaiei (nowadays Calea Victoriei) to the delight of the happy inhabitants. Latter on that place appeared the Kisseleff park. At 1847, on Soseaua Kiseleff, Bibescu voda made the inauguration of His Fountains with many priests, canon fires and military ceremony. It was an art and technique masterpiece, much more advanced compared to other neighborhoods.

The Mine and Stone Careers Fountain lies also in the Carol Park, and was build at 1906

The many fountains and water sources of Bucharest are mentioned in the names of many streets of Bucharest (observe the different names like Putul, Cismeaua, Fantana). Maybe not so spectacular like the fountains of Rome (Fontana di Trevi e.g.), the fountains of Bucharest have a strong long history behind, and there are plans for building in Bucharest the biggest fountain in Europe.

One of the oldest fountains still in use is the Cantacuzino fountain from Parcul Carol I. It was build at 1870 by the former Mayor of Bucharest, latter twice prime minister, George Grigore Cantacuzino, being similar in some aspects white the Medicis Fountain from the Paris' Jardin de Luxembourg. Prior, on that place was another fountain, demolished with that occasion.

The wonderful Miorita Fountain from the Herastrau Park

At 1906, in the same Carol I park, was inaugurated the Mines and Stone Career Fountain. It is a sober simple building from stone blocks, with elements of specific Romanian architecture. The water basin is more elaborated, build in carved stone. Lies upper the Cantacuzino Fountain, towards the Roman Arena.

Carol IInd, son and follower of Carol I, inaugurated the Zodiac Fountain at the main entrance of Carol parc. The fountain was designed by an architect, but the sculptures of zodiac signs belong to another artist, the stone carver Mac Constantinescu.

One of the nicest and most spectacular fountains of Bucharest lies at its Northern entrance, in the Herastrau Park. It was build at 1936 by the architect Octav Doicescu, with carved stones from Milita Petrascu, describing Miorita, a Romanian epic poem. The long renovation from 2000 was successful, keeping the original momentousness and value of this fountain.

Wow, I still have much to say about The Bucharest Fountains, but I will be back soon. Too much water in my opinion, shall also concentrate on wine. Maybe is a good idea organizing wine tasting near a fountain.

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